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Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Lynn Smith, Mike Brooks, Dennis Smith, 1982
Page Views: 956 total, 11/month
Shared By: Joe Brannan on Aug 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start 20 feet left of the West Crack at the base of a vertical face. Use large holds to ascend steep rock up and right to the arete. Turn the arete out onto the face. Climb past a small roof straight up and continue straight through the somewhat dirty although secure face to the anchor.

Location

This is left of Left Arete and West Crack routes. It passes through Left Arete at the small roof.

Protection

The rock is not great on the steep start, and there is minimal protection options except for around the small roof and up higher on the face. Levin gives it an R.

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Really fun, I'd give it more stars if it was safe to lead. Basically, one has to do all the moves at grade while unprotected, looking at a bad fall with the possibility of bouncing off the ledge and falling even farther. But definitely set up a TR for this one after leading West Crack! Jun 21, 2012
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.6 R
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.6 R
Strangely, I really enjoyed this route. Fun, albeit thin climbing! Apr 25, 2011