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Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: M. Brooks, 1986
Page Views: 186 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Find the route as for "Spoof" climb up the ramp of spoof for about 30 feet, until a few bolts become [visible] overhead and slightly to the right. The holds are positive and the bolts are good. [Go] up and over the overhang diagonally right to the first bolt. Clip this and move up to a second bolt. From the second bolt climb the short crux to reach the bolt anchor above.

Lower off from the bolt anchor.

Protection

The route can be done on fixed gear alone, clipping a few pins on the start. Supplement with gear on Spoof if so desired, to add security. A few cams work fine, but there is little gear anyway.

Photos

Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
I'm pretty sure the full name for this route was "The Divine Ms M". It got shortened to "M" in Rossiter, 2000, and I always assumed it was named after a spectacular Mines student Mike and I both new back in the mid eighties. She would ride her mountain bike from Golden to Eldo (and climbed hard!!).

Also, the nice glue in bolts at the top where placed by Ric Leitner in the late nineties. Mar 10, 2016
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
Indeed, one will get pumped looking for the holds as I did this past [Saturday]. This f'd up climb ended my fun filled day of getting sandbagged-first on 'Break on Through' then this. Utter humiliation but fun. Jul 12, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
This climb has gotten harder since 7/01. And harder again as of Saturday 7/9/04, when I pulled a saucepan-sized crux hold off of it down onto the trail below. At least now what remains seems pretty solid. The climb checks in at maybe 10+/11- for an on-sight at present. Easier if you know the moves, but you might get worked over trying to find them. Jul 11, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Beware of rope eating potential when Tr'ing this climb. Ate me first rope. Mar 7, 2002

More About M aka The Divine Ms. M

Printer-Friendly Guide
Fixed Hardware Report (4)