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Dihedral One
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British V2 YDS 5+ Font R
Avg: 1.5 from 4
votes
Routes in The Whale's Tail
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Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R |
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Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 25 ft |
| FA: | Kevin Donald, summer 1970 |
| Page Views: | 837 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 4, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
On the South Side of the Wind Tower there are 2 vertical dihedrals along the trail between the foot bridge and the cave. Both are open and somewhat irregular. Both are polished and smooth.
The first of these passed on the Streamside Trail (rightmost) is Dihedral One. This route is thin, hard, slick, and somehow- it is fun. This route has fun and interesting moves, but is not very aesthetic. At 5.10d, it is quite the sandbag, I grade it moderate 5.11... a slick, thin, tricky, 5.11 on questionable protection. I fell a few times on the route prior to success. My partner, after watching me do the route fell several times as well. We both normally on-sight 5.11. Mike Brooks was walking below so I asked him what he thought of the grade, as I believe he'd done it... 5.11? He concurred.
Go up the dihedral placing a single small TCU and a few moderate to poor stoppers before balancing your way through the crux. Pull over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.
Descend by finishing up on the slabs, or by traversing off and left to the back side slabe of the tail.
The first of these passed on the Streamside Trail (rightmost) is Dihedral One. This route is thin, hard, slick, and somehow- it is fun. This route has fun and interesting moves, but is not very aesthetic. At 5.10d, it is quite the sandbag, I grade it moderate 5.11... a slick, thin, tricky, 5.11 on questionable protection. I fell a few times on the route prior to success. My partner, after watching me do the route fell several times as well. We both normally on-sight 5.11. Mike Brooks was walking below so I asked him what he thought of the grade, as I believe he'd done it... 5.11? He concurred.
Go up the dihedral placing a single small TCU and a few moderate to poor stoppers before balancing your way through the crux. Pull over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.
Descend by finishing up on the slabs, or by traversing off and left to the back side slabe of the tail.
Protection
The Rossiter Book calls this route 5.10d and does not call it S. I beg to differ.
The gear can be made to be acceptable, but not good. The crux is close to the ground and a string of poor brassies and small nuts in a smooth and somewhat flaring spot is crux pro. The gear can hold fall, if you place it well. If you are not solid at this grade, get a crash pad and spotter.
The crux can be bouldered with a pad and spotter, but good luck reversing the move- take several pads.
Ball-nuts could help.
The gear can be made to be acceptable, but not good. The crux is close to the ground and a string of poor brassies and small nuts in a smooth and somewhat flaring spot is crux pro. The gear can hold fall, if you place it well. If you are not solid at this grade, get a crash pad and spotter.
The crux can be bouldered with a pad and spotter, but good luck reversing the move- take several pads.
Ball-nuts could help.
Photos
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