Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)|
|FA:||Kevin Donald, summer 1970|
|Page Views:||1,089 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 4, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The first of these passed on the Streamside Trail (rightmost) is Dihedral One. This route is thin, hard, slick, and somehow- it is fun. This route has fun and interesting moves, but is not very aesthetic. At 5.10d, it is quite the sandbag, I grade it moderate 5.11... a slick, thin, tricky, 5.11 on questionable protection. I fell a few times on the route prior to success. My partner, after watching me do the route fell several times as well. We both normally on-sight 5.11. Mike Brooks was walking below so I asked him what he thought of the grade, as I believe he'd done it... 5.11? He concurred.
Go up the dihedral placing a single small TCU and a few moderate to poor stoppers before balancing your way through the crux. Pull over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.
Descend by finishing up on the slabs, or by traversing off and left to the back side slabe of the tail.
The gear can be made to be acceptable, but not good. The crux is close to the ground and a string of poor brassies and small nuts in a smooth and somewhat flaring spot is crux pro. The gear can hold fall, if you place it well. If you are not solid at this grade, get a crash pad and spotter.
The crux can be bouldered with a pad and spotter, but good luck reversing the move- take several pads.
Ball-nuts could help.