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Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Kevin Donald, summer 1970
Page Views: 766 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On the South Side of the Wind Tower there are 2 vertical dihedrals along the trail between the foot bridge and the cave. Both are open and somewhat irregular. Both are polished and smooth.

The first of these passed on the Streamside Trail (rightmost) is Dihedral One. This route is thin, hard, slick, and somehow- it is fun. This route has fun and interesting moves, but is not very aesthetic. At 5.10d, it is quite the sandbag, I grade it moderate 5.11... a slick, thin, tricky, 5.11 on questionable protection. I fell a few times on the route prior to success. My partner, after watching me do the route fell several times as well. We both normally on-sight 5.11. Mike Brooks was walking below so I asked him what he thought of the grade, as I believe he'd done it... 5.11? He concurred.

Go up the dihedral placing a single small TCU and a few moderate to poor stoppers before balancing your way through the crux. Pull over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.

Descend by finishing up on the slabs, or by traversing off and left to the back side slabe of the tail.

Protection

The Rossiter Book calls this route 5.10d and does not call it S. I beg to differ.

The gear can be made to be acceptable, but not good. The crux is close to the ground and a string of poor brassies and small nuts in a smooth and somewhat flaring spot is crux pro. The gear can hold fall, if you place it well. If you are not solid at this grade, get a crash pad and spotter.

The crux can be bouldered with a pad and spotter, but good luck reversing the move- take several pads.

Ball-nuts could help.

Photos

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The "Green Hornet Dihedral" as well as the overhanging wall to the left, "Inverted Staircase" and the right face of the Green Hornet Dihedral (begins with an undercling) and "Turok's Mantle" were all put-up in the Spring and early Summer of 1970. They were my early feeble attempts at "high-ball bouldering" I showed them to Duncan Ferguson when he moved back from Hawaii in the Autumn of 1970. We showed it to David Breashears much later. If we are keeping it real, it is solid 5.11 with consequences if you do not have a crash pad. I know for a fact that it is much easier to boulder this little gem than to lead it placing the marginal pro. Cheers! Kevin Dec 20, 2010
To the best of my recollection, Kevin "Turok" Donald used to solo this route in his flip-flops. He called this route, "Green Hornet Dihedral". First Ascent: Kevin Donald or Duncan Ferguson or Dave Breashears. Rating 5.11. May 1, 2010
slevin  
The FA of this route is unknown; it's been listed in guidebooks since at least the early 1970s. Jul 9, 2006