Avg: 2.6 from 27 votes
Trad, 100 ft
|FA:||FFA: Jim Erickson and Mike Hartrich, 1973|
|Page Views:||3,380 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 2, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
The route is the dihedral to the center of the diamond-shaped roof of the Whale's Tail, just left of C'est What? The route traverses out right under the roof to finish up on top, which is super steep and exciting. In term of LEADING routes, this is my most frequented route in Eldo. I've done it about a dozen times and I still enjoy it at the end of a day when not much time is left. Plus, it never has a queue! One must be SOLID at the grade.
The pro is sparse and somewhat poor. There is a dangerous runout to just below the roof (to a stopper, 2.5" cam, and a fixed pin), and then only so-so pro at the corner below the roof or beyond. The roof is "big" crimpers for fingers and poor feet. If one falls from the roof and the gear holds, they will likely get a solid pounding in the dihedral. If the gear does not hold... ???