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Routes in The Whale's Tail
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Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Buffoonery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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C'est What? S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R |
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Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Free Speech S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kid's Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Lunge Break 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A |
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M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Monument, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9312, -105.283 |
| FA: | Mike Brooks, 1981? |
| Page Views: | 947 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 8, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route can be found on the Tourist Trail below the Whale's Tail, between the pedestrian Bridge and the Monument Cave. Walk along the trail past a thin, open, left-facing dihedral. ([Dihedral One]) and to a second one, still right facing, undulating dihedral (Dihedral Two.) You will notice a series of chalked up holds working up and left on jugs to the left of dihedral a meter or two. Along the way you will pad a tapped-in gutter nail. Continuing the climb upward, through the roof, is easier than stopping for protection anyway, but obviously heady. Once on the slab, protect and start climbing right, towards the anchors above "M." These chain & links are good for a lower off or stationary belay.
Photos
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