PRINT: Rock Climb Gut Feeling, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Gut Feeling

5.10 R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Mike Brooks, 1981?
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Whale's Tail

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This route can be found on the Tourist Trail below the Whale's Tail, between the pedestrian Bridge and the Monument Cave. Walk along the trail past a thin, open, left-facing dihedral. ([Dihedral One]) and to a second one, still right facing, undulating dihedral (Dihedral Two.) You will notice a series of chalked up holds working up and left on jugs to the left of dihedral a meter or two. Along the way you will pad a tapped-in gutter nail. Continuing the climb upward, through the roof, is easier than stopping for protection anyway, but obviously heady. Once on the slab, protect and start climbing right, towards the anchors above "M." These chain & links are good for a lower off or stationary belay.

Protection

You can place a few pieces in Dihedral Two, nearby and keep stepping right to do so (.5-2" cams) or you can just run this out a little. Take long slings. Once on the upper slab, it was easy to put in directionals and go to the sport anchor and lower or rap off above 'M'.