Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,756 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


66 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Attain the ledge on the West side of the Whale's Tail as for West Crack or West Dihedral. Put in a belay anchor there and if desired, go a few meters up West Crack, and sink in a good cam or stopper before starting off on this climb. Step to the right side of the large ledge, and climb upwards on the clean face on good edges and ledges to mid-face, where a few small-to-medium stoppers can be placed behind a left-facing 2' crack/flake. This is the crux (5.6?). Pull this move, and continue upward toward the top, getting just a few more [pieces] along the way.

Belay from gear on top or from the side of the anchor above West Crack.

To descend, rap from that anchor to the ledge, or to the ground with a 70m rope.

Protection

A few stoppers & small cams. This route can be TR'd from the anchor above West Crack, but in all likelihood, you'd be 'in the way' of another party if you did. The route rating VS designates a potential for a severe ledge fall, although the crux move could be protected, and more gear can be had if one chooses to wander.

Photos