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Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad
FA: Diana Hunter & Billy Roos, 1970s
Page Views: 167 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On the South Side of the Whale's Tail a slippery ramp rises from the right to left on a dark band of rock [from the] streamside trail. This route is Spoof. Climb the first 30 or so feet past fixed pins with a few possible tricam or SLCD placements. This section is the 5.8+ crux of Spoof. After a few more moves, a pocketed and chunky crack/dihedral/roof appears overhead. Climb up and slightly to the right on pockets, pinches, underclings, and jams.

Normally, I'd say to continue to a good belay stance, but there isn't one - so just continue until...[there] are some bolted anchors for nearby routes if you want to do some simple rigging, ro you can continue up to the top and scramble off.

I found the climbing to be reasonably fun and perhaps not as bad as described on-line for the route "Spoof," but this is certainly no destination. It's a route to be enjoyed by those who are completists in Eldo and don't mind a bit of obscure climbing.

At least it's not a long walk.

Protection

There are a few fixed pins low on the route Spoof, where Spoof Roof starts. These are not great, and the climbing nearby is easy, but I advise clipping them. Not much else is available, and the rock is slick. Use longer slings to avoid drag and place gear whenever possible. As you turn the roof, the "[chunkiness]" of the rock makes it somewhat difficult to trust the gear. The gear in and of itself is not bad, but the general slipperiness of the rock makes a fall from anywhere possible, whereas gear is not necessarily so readily available.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
I thought the crux was the ramp. It was super greasy. Nothing very positive. You can get some cams in the pin scars. The gear at the roof was pretty bad. You can get a number 3 deep in a muddy hole behind the loose flake. After cruising over the overhang, you can place a directional for your 2nd and step down right to a bolt anchor.... Jun 27, 2009
Diana Hunter and I free climbed the Spoof Roof sometime in the early '70s. Diana led the roof on minimal gear. When I followed the pitch, I pulled off a block, which hit me directly in the forehead; briefly knocking me out and leaving me spinning on the end of the rope. Diana held on tight from a very shaky belay above the roof, and I subsequently recovered and managed to finish the pitch. Feb 25, 2015

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