Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,524 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is the easiest line up the Whale's Tale, providing easy access to the summit and a good view. Depending on your exact line, this route can range from 5.0 to 5.4, and is very similar to the opening pitches of the Third Flatiron. Pro is spaced in some areas, but is adequate. Think Third Flatiron.


Hike up the approach trail as if going to Wind Tower. Roughly half way up the trail there is a tree at the base of the Whale's Tail and directly above that about 90ft. is a large Juniper Tree. Climb the slab up to the Juniper tree and belay. Continue up the groove slightly to the left and follow to the top. From here you can either walk off the Northeast Arete, or rap from the anchors of West Crack.


Standard rack, bring some long slings for the Juniper tree belay.


Jason Gilbert
Jason Gilbert   Lakewood
Good, fun climb, a nice place to take a new climber or someone new to Eldo. Be carefull moving too far to the right from the Juniper tree, it makes the anchors very hard to find. Aim to the left of what looks like the summit point. Jun 4, 2009
Rick Blair
Rick Blair   Denver
North East Gully. Probably not worth its own listing in the database but worth a mention here. I took my kids top roping here and really enjoyed it. Allowed them to get a long pitch in (~35 meters), I had to belay from the top with a 60m rope. Went at about 5.0, possibly a little harder, not 4th class though. Belay setup was on blocks at the top of the gully, bottom of start for "The Bulge". You can sling said blocks, and there are a lot of great stopper placements in the area. You will need long webbing or a static rope to cut down on the V angle. Take the Wind Tower climber's trail up.

It was great to work on communication with my kids for future multi-pitch, taking in the rope "that's me!" etc. Downside is some loose rock and poison ivy at the base of the gully that is easily avoidable. Nov 14, 2015
Adam Isaacs
Boulder, CO
Adam Isaacs   Boulder, CO
There are a lotttt of lines on this face all around 5.0 with a few scattered and avoidable 5.2 moves, depending on your line. Great solo jaunt 5 mins from the car.

The right side stays wet for a few days after precip, heads up if soloing. Nov 1, 2017