Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,049 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the easiest line up the Whale's Tale, providing easy access to the summit and a good view. Depending on your exact line, this route can range from 5.0 to 5.4, and is very similar to the opening pitches of the Third Flatiron. Pro is spaced in some areas, but is adequate. Think Third Flatiron.

Location

Hike up the approach trail as if going to Wind Tower. Roughly half way up the trail there is a tree at the base of the Whale's Tail and directly above that about 90ft. is a large Juniper Tree. Climb the slab up to the Juniper tree and belay. Continue up the groove slightly to the left and follow to the top. From here you can either walk off the Northeast Arete, or rap from the anchors of West Crack.

Protection

Standard rack, bring some long slings for the Juniper tree belay.

Photos

Adam Isaacs
Boulder, CO
5.0
Adam Isaacs   Boulder, CO
5.0
There are a lotttt of lines on this face all around 5.0 with a few scattered and avoidable 5.2 moves, depending on your line. Great solo jaunt 5 mins from the car.

The right side stays wet for a few days after precip, heads up if soloing. Nov 1, 2017
Rick Blair
Denver
Rick Blair   Denver
North East Gully. Probably not worth its own listing in the database but worth a mention here. I took my kids top roping here and really enjoyed it. Allowed them to get a long pitch in (~35 meters), I had to belay from the top with a 60m rope. Went at about 5.0, possibly a little harder, not 4th class though. Belay setup was on blocks at the top of the gully, bottom of start for "The Bulge". You can sling said blocks, and there are a lot of great stopper placements in the area. You will need long webbing or a static rope to cut down on the V angle. Take the Wind Tower climber's trail up.

It was great to work on communication with my kids for future multi-pitch, taking in the rope "that's me!" etc. Downside is some loose rock and poison ivy at the base of the gully that is easily avoidable. Nov 14, 2015
Jason Gilbert
Lakewood
  5.2
Jason Gilbert   Lakewood
  5.2
Good, fun climb, a nice place to take a new climber or someone new to Eldo. Be carefull moving too far to the right from the Juniper tree, it makes the anchors very hard to find. Aim to the left of what looks like the summit point. Jun 4, 2009