Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: FRA David Light, 1980s
Page Views: 1,452 total · 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.

The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on T2. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)

A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on Touch & Go, traverses to Jules Verne, climbs upper T2, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing Body Tremors and Smoke & Mirrors to the summit of Tower One.

Location

The Direct Finish heads straight up after the 5.9, overhanging talus pitch on T2.

Protection

Gear to 3".

Photos

Michael Goodhue
Colorado
Michael Goodhue   Colorado
Excellent pitch! (2 pitches?) If only it would get climbed more and some of the lichen would get scrubbed off. Even still, I highly recommend it.

After the dicey talus pitch of T2, you'll be on a ramp. Look for a pocket in the wall, then go up and right over the roof to big jugs. Then aim for the obvious hand crack in a small roof, and climb on to the top! Apr 1, 2013
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Once on top, wander up the slab (~30 ft?) and locate a new threaded cord anchor. Make a messy rap north, then scramble up the slab until you intersect the Yellow Spur walk-off that leads back down to the Chockstone rappels. Jun 19, 2014
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
 
Tried to do this twice now, and each time it ends up uber runout on lichen covered holds. Maybe I keep picking the wrong line but definitely felt 'R', and with such little traffic, I was worried a hold was going to pop. Skipping this pitch next go around. Nov 8, 2014
Kevin P
Loveland
  5.9 PG13
Kevin P   Loveland
  5.9 PG13
The pull around the roof was exciting and not that obvious where to go. Once you grab the jugs, cut right a bit and head up. I thought it was an awesome pitch. Bring a ton of tiny stoppers. It protected nicely. Apr 30, 2015