Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: FRA David Light, 1980s
Page Views: 1,297 total, 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.

The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on T2. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)

A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on Touch & Go, traverses to Jules Verne, climbs upper T2, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing Body Tremors and Smoke & Mirrors to the summit of Tower One.

Location

The Direct Finish heads straight up after the 5.9, overhanging talus pitch on T2.

Protection

Gear to 3".

Photos

Kevin P
Loveland
  5.9 PG13
Kevin P   Loveland
  5.9 PG13
The pull around the roof was exciting and not that obvious where to go. Once you grab the jugs, cut right a bit and head up. I thought it was an awesome pitch. Bring a ton of tiny stoppers. It protected nicely. Apr 30, 2015
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
 
Tried to do this twice now, and each time it ends up uber runout on lichen covered holds. Maybe I keep picking the wrong line but definitely felt 'R', and with such little traffic, I was worried a hold was going to pop. Skipping this pitch next go around. Nov 8, 2014
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Once on top, wander up the slab (~30 ft?) and locate a new threaded cord anchor. Make a messy rap north, then scramble up the slab until you intersect the Yellow Spur walk-off that leads back down to the Chockstone rappels. Jun 19, 2014
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
Excellent pitch! (2 pitches?) If only it would get climbed more and some of the lichen would get scrubbed off. Even still, I highly recommend it.

After the dicey talus pitch of T2, you'll be on a ramp. Look for a pocket in the wall, then go up and right over the roof to big jugs. Then aim for the obvious hand crack in a small roof, and climb on to the top! Apr 1, 2013