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T2 Direct Finish
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 33
votes
Early Access
Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 |
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Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Element X T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingless Victory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Young, Good Free Face T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9312, -105.28518 |
| FA: | FRA David Light, 1980s |
| Page Views: | 2,925 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Apr 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon's falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit cpw.state.co.us/state-parks…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon's falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit cpw.state.co.us/state-parks…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.
The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on T2. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)
A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on Touch & Go, traverses to Jules Verne, climbs upper T2, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing Body Tremors and Smoke & Mirrors to the summit of Tower One.
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