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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
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Type: Sport, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: C. Ruckgaber, M. Brooks, 1988
Page Views: 1,834 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Hike up to Redgarden Wall as for C'est La Vie or Touch 'N' Go, starting from the old concrete slab just SW of the Whale's Tail. Make your way up to the cliff and walk left a short distance to an obvious bolted line on a flat but broken, right-facing wall that overhangs slightly. This climb is on an obvious arete more or less 1/2 way between C'est La Vie and Touch 'N' Go.

The line of bolts follows a line of sharp holds up and left to the arete, then left at the corner. These holds start large but get small, and are somewhat painful in spots. Follow said line of bolts up, then left to the arete, then around the edge and up to the top. It's kinda fun, but kinda short, and kinda sharp. Still, it should give even a strong climber a good pump.

From the top, a fixed station lies up and left.

Protection

5 draws plus 2 slings for the anchors up above.

Per Mark Rolofson: you can clip a bolt from No Lo Contendere with a long sling to make it 6 bolts & a pin.

Photos

Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators. Jan 3, 2003
Agree that the first bolt would be a tough clip for shorter folks, but you could also place gear in the flake to protect the start. Quite pumpy, but I didn't find it too sharp or painful.
-Scott Oct 15, 2009
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
A great pitch that offers a good pump and quite stout for the grade.
I first redpointed the route in Fall, 1988. The first ascent recorded their ascent in a notebook at the Boulder Mountaineer. I remember that they rated the climb 5.11d/12a. I climbed the route numerous times between 1988 & 1993 and have occasionally revisited the route over the years since. Returning to it and comparing it to other Front Range sport climbs, I'd have to call it .12a. I have always felt it deserved that rating. The individual moves aren't that hard, but the continuous nature of the climbing with the crux coming at the end of the hard climbing, before reaching the arete, adds up to a 5.12a pump. Much harder than the nearby "La Boomerang".
As for the number of bolts, there are 6 protection bolts and one piton. The 5th bolt wasn't originally part of the route and is a bolt on "No Contest". This is the bolt on the left side of the arete. Clip it with a long sling & then clip out of once reaching the last bolt, to eliminate rope drag. Mar 26, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts. Apr 6, 2013