Type: Sport, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: C. Ruckgaber, M. Brooks, 1988
Page Views: 1,900 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Hike up to Redgarden Wall as for C'est La Vie or Touch 'N' Go, starting from the old concrete slab just SW of the Whale's Tail. Make your way up to the cliff and walk left a short distance to an obvious bolted line on a flat but broken, right-facing wall that overhangs slightly. This climb is on an obvious arete more or less 1/2 way between C'est La Vie and Touch 'N' Go.

The line of bolts follows a line of sharp holds up and left to the arete, then left at the corner. These holds start large but get small, and are somewhat painful in spots. Follow said line of bolts up, then left to the arete, then around the edge and up to the top. It's kinda fun, but kinda short, and kinda sharp. Still, it should give even a strong climber a good pump.

From the top, a fixed station lies up and left.

Protection

5 draws plus 2 slings for the anchors up above.

Per Mark Rolofson: you can clip a bolt from No Lo Contendere with a long sling to make it 6 bolts & a pin.

Photos

Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators. Jan 3, 2003
Scott Bennett
Michigan
Scott Bennett   Michigan
Agree that the first bolt would be a tough clip for shorter folks, but you could also place gear in the flake to protect the start. Quite pumpy, but I didn't find it too sharp or painful.
-Scott Oct 15, 2009
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
A great pitch that offers a good pump and quite stout for the grade.
I first redpointed the route in Fall, 1988. The first ascent recorded their ascent in a notebook at the Boulder Mountaineer. I remember that they rated the climb 5.11d/12a. I climbed the route numerous times between 1988 & 1993 and have occasionally revisited the route over the years since. Returning to it and comparing it to other Front Range sport climbs, I'd have to call it .12a. I have always felt it deserved that rating. The individual moves aren't that hard, but the continuous nature of the climbing with the crux coming at the end of the hard climbing, before reaching the arete, adds up to a 5.12a pump. Much harder than the nearby "La Boomerang".
As for the number of bolts, there are 6 protection bolts and one piton. The 5th bolt wasn't originally part of the route and is a bolt on "No Contest". This is the bolt on the left side of the arete. Clip it with a long sling & then clip out of once reaching the last bolt, to eliminate rope drag. Mar 26, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts. Apr 6, 2013