Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: Topher Donahue, Vera Schulte-Pelkum, Kent McClannan, 2003
Page Views: 2,003 total · 15/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

10,000 Leagues is an interesting route that weaves a path between some classic bits of climbing. While parts are lichenous, and somewhat contrived, it's a worthwhile route for someone who's climbed everything else on this excellent sector of the Redgarden Wall.

P1: Begin with the infamous third pitch of Jules Verne, climb through the big runout, and then continue past the broken band onto Lene's Dream. A few body-lengths above the broken band, reach a slanting pod for a green Alien. Instead of cutting right to The Naked Edge, cast off up and left, following an incipient seam.

As the wall slabs out, traverse left to the fixed pin-nut belay on Jules Verne.

The JV-LD part of the pitch is probably 5.11- R, and the 10kL part is 5.10 R.

P2: Traverse right off the JV belay towards a short, right-angling flake system. Place good gear here, then climb up into another vague crack system. Trend left up the featured wall, through a shallow, right-facing corner, and finally rejoin JV below a big roof to belay. 5.11- R.

P3: Climb the JV roof. Continue up, and stay straight where JV breaks left. Chase dirty seams and thin face holds up increasingly slabby terrain, finishing on the summit ridge. 10+ R.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to #2 Camalot, heavy on the thin stuff.

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