Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Topher Donahue, Vera Schulte-Pelkum, Kent McClannan, 2003|
|Page Views:||1,545 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Bennett on Dec 6, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1: Begin with the infamous third pitch of Jules Verne, climb through the big runout, and then continue past the broken band onto Lene's Dream. A few body-lengths above the broken band, reach a slanting pod for a green Alien. Instead of cutting right to The Naked Edge, cast off up and left, following an incipient seam.
As the wall slabs out, traverse left to the fixed pin-nut belay on Jules Verne.
The JV-LD part of the pitch is probably 5.11- R, and the 10kL part is 5.10 R.
P2: Traverse right off the JV belay towards a short, right-angling flake system. Place good gear here, then climb up into another vague crack system. Trend left up the featured wall, through a shallow, right-facing corner, and finally rejoin JV below a big roof to belay. 5.11- R.
P3: Climb the JV roof. Continue up, and stay straight where JV breaks left. Chase dirty seams and thin face holds up increasingly slabby terrain, finishing on the summit ridge. 10+ R.