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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Briggs & Steve Levin, 2003
Page Views: 957 total, 5/month
Shared By: slevin on Mar 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Shasta climbs three new independent pitches to the right of Upper Ruper. The only point of intersection with Upper Ruper is the belay at the top of the first pitch.

Pitch 1: Immediately right of the start of Upper Ruper is a beautiful left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a small stance, then continue up and slightly left below a pronounced hanging corner. At the top of the corner move 10 feet left to Upper Ruper and belay at a small ledge with a fixed pin.

Pitch 2: Move out right onto a bulging wall, up and slightly right, then left to a break. Continue straight up the steep pocketed wall above, aiming for a hanging left-facing corner that leads to the right edge of a large roof (the roof at which Upper Ruper traverses left). Continue past the corner and a maroon band with stacked blocks. Ten feet above is a good belay stance.

Pitch 3: From the belay head up and slightly left, then back right aiming for a right-facing corner with a jam crack in it. Continue up the face above to the summit of Tower 2.

To descend downclimb the last part of the face, then head towards the saddle to the west, and either of the many descent options from there.

Bill and I enjoyed this climb a great deal. We were surprised to see no signs of previous travel. Although there is still a fair amount of lichen on the route (we led pitches with a wire brush) it has a lot of good climbing and should become popular-- at least 3 parties repeated it the week after the FA. The climbing on the improbable seemingly blank second pitch is very exhilarating. Led ground-up.

Protection

A standard Eldorado rack including RPs and aliens. The route is fairly runout in a couple of spots, particularly on the second pitch.

Photos

dlight
 
dlight  
 
The first two pitches are dirty and contrived. Climbing the route with a wire brush is still a good suggestion. The top pitch is excellent, 5.8 R, it predates Shasta and is better accessed from the Serpent to the right. Oct 12, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
I finally went and did the line in its entirety... I think. The second pitch I started and finished on as described, but I pretty much did the line up the arete just right of P2 of Ruper. I am not sure that was right. Good climbing though- could use some more cleaning/brushing in spots.
P1: 5.9, PG-13
P2: 5.10a, S/VS
P3: 5.9-, S

It seems to me this climb is presently at its prime as an adventure climb, where the route is still relatively unknown and nebulous, but known to exist and climbable in its present state.

Aliens probably would have worked better than the micro-Camalots I had, which are too broad and finicky for the rough and uneven placements that might have been better with other cams. As such, I encountered 60' runouts on the P2/P3. Which, may I add, can be run together for a single 68meter pitch with some good sling work, or simply run out like crazy.

I will reiterate that this is not your average 'S' route. It is not new-age 'S' whereas there is simply no bolt above your head at the crux. This is old-school 'S.' Falling from the crux would be bad. Falling from other places would cripple you or kill you. This is a climb for a seasoned stone master, not an early career goal. Apr 1, 2007
It's hard to believe that such an obvious and stellar corner so close to Ruper has escaped detection for so long. After following the 2nd pitch crux and the break that Steve mentions, I served as a bit of a crash-test-dummy and was unwittingly lured by Andy onto a bulging headwall covered in potato-chip-sized lichen flakes. This way goes directly from the break to the hanging left-facing corner and travels over compact rock with very technical movement- probably 5.11. If there was any gear at all on this section, Shasta would be a 3-star classic.-Don Bushey May 5, 2003
slevin
 
slevin  
 
The climb is named after my wife's golden retriever, Shasta, who as a puppy lived with an older golden retriever named Ruper, named such because his owner was benighted on Upper Ruper shortly before he got his dog. I thought it fitting that Shasta and Ruper should be side-by-side in Eldorado, a place they both enjoyed very much. Apr 29, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
Despite its newness this line it is getting traffic, though I have not done it yet. I saw Andy Donson and Don Bushey on it last weekend and this weekend I snagged the line to it's right and crossed it for a while. It's pretty well chalked up and clear for at least a short section. I completed what I am confident is a mostly new pitch from the 2nd belay of Serpent which intersects this climb from the right about 1/2 way up the wall and continues up and left to cross Shasta- about 50M of mostly new climbing, although Shasta does mingle with the line for a short period. I referred to this line as Fresca (5.10, R). As I am more informed of the relationship between these two lines and also between Shasta and the 'terra incognita' I decsribed in my write up of Serpent a few years ago, I'll try to post a clear description. I will add this to the site as Fresca, as it will be referred to from 3 different routes and I'd like to put the info in one place. Apr 28, 2003
I did this climb last Friday with Bill Briggs. He has already done it four times! He thinks this climb is 3-stars, but I agree with Steve: 2-stars. And even that probably depends on the climbing getting a bit cleaner.

The first two pitches are both S+ in my opinion. The first part of the first pitch is protected great, but the finish is runout and that is the hardest climbing. The pro here is a bit tricky and I think you should be a 5.10 leader to do this pitch safely.The 2nd pitch has a big runout after the technical crux, but even the crux is protected by tiny Aliens of dubious quality.

That said, I really enjoyed the climb. It is fun covering some near ground and this makes a nice alternative way off from the Upper Ramp. We also found a better way off the summit of T1. Instead of downclimbing part of the last pitch, head down the exact opposite side (mostly to the north) and you'll find big holds just when you need them. This downclimb is probably only 5.2 or so and not nearly as exposed as downclimbing the last pitch.

Thanks to Steve and Bill for this fun new route. Apr 14, 2003