Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Roger Briggs & Bill Briggs, 1973|
|Page Views:||1,899 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 30, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
P1: Begin a little ways up and left on the Upper Ramp from the black slot/crack that marks the start of upper T2. Pull up and right at an obvious weakness to gain a crack and pro. Probably 20' of unprotected 5.8 here. Climb upwards for another 20' to gain the obvious finger crack and follow this up and leftwards to a ledge. Belay. The pitch is approximately 100' long.
P2: Traditionally you would traverse off the left margin of the ledge to gain a very shallow left-facing corner with poor gear. A much nicer option is to continue up and left off the ledge in the obvious black hand crack. This leads directly up to the roof. Step left to a flake to establish yourself below the roof and get a no-hands rest. Currently there is a fixed hex and tat under the roof. This can be backed up with a solid red Alien or 0.5 Camalot. Pull the roof. This is very strenuous and requires bringing your feet way up and liebacking in a near-horizontal position before rocking up to a good crack. Felt like one of the most powerful 11c's I've done in Eldo. Once past the roof you traverse left about 10' and then head up chossy rock to a belay niche. Continue up on easy rock or traverse slightly right to a slung horn and make two raps back to the ramp (recommended - bring webbing).
Roving for Love was a great linkup: Roll Over Rover to Rover to Love Minus Zero. Thanks to Steve Levin.