Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roger Briggs & Bill Briggs, 1973
Page Views: 1,476 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 30, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Love Minus Zero: Two stars if done by itself, subtract a star for the deteriorating rock above the roof, add a star if done as a part of "Roving for Love."

P1: Begin a little ways up and left on the Upper Ramp from the black slot/crack that marks the start of upper T2. Pull up and right at an obvious weakness to gain a crack and pro. Probably 20' of unprotected 5.8 here. Climb upwards for another 20' to gain the obvious finger crack and follow this up and leftwards to a ledge. Belay. The pitch is approximately 100' long.

P2: Traditionally you would traverse off the left margin of the ledge to gain a very shallow left-facing corner with poor gear. A much nicer option is to continue up and left off the ledge in the obvious black hand crack. This leads directly up to the roof. Step left to a flake to establish yourself below the roof and get a no-hands rest. Currently there is a fixed hex and tat under the roof. This can be backed up with a solid red Alien or 0.5 Camalot. Pull the roof. This is very strenuous and requires bringing your feet way up and liebacking in a near-horizontal position before rocking up to a good crack. Felt like one of the most powerful 11c's I've done in Eldo. Once past the roof you traverse left about 10' and then head up chossy rock to a belay niche. Continue up on easy rock or traverse slightly right to a slung horn and make two raps back to the ramp (recommended - bring webbing).

Roving for Love was a great linkup: Roll Over Rover to Rover to Love Minus Zero. Thanks to Steve Levin.

Protection

SR.

Photos

EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
The black hand crack mentioned is on T2 and it is gained by going right not left off the ledge. I think the shallow corner is a great feature of the route and should not be missed however. Jan 28, 2015