Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Eric Johnson, Lynn Hill, Wes Cables, Justin Sjong
Page Views: 4,699 total · 74/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route begins from the top of the the first pitch of The Naked Edge. Climb the original Kor 2nd pitch past a pin up to a pair of historical bolts. Proceed up the steepening corner to the right. This is easily seen on the cover of the first ed. Levin guide. Gain the slab above and follow the path of least resistance (5.6), at one point stepping right to a stance above an overlap, to the ledge just left of the base of the Pigeon Flake pitch of The Diving Board. A #2 or #3 Camalot is good to have for the belay (5.9, 100 feet). The crux pitch climbs two bolts of 5.10 off the belay where gear can be had in broken bulge. Undercling up to the third bolt and clip two more through the bulge. Arrive at a stance shared with the Diving Board, and extend up to the left and clip a bolt. Follow the incut crack through an overlap and up right to a shallow, left-facing corner with an amazing finger section. Belay at the Black hole belay (DB). It is technical then burly (100 feet). The final pitch is exposed, improbable, and super fun. One small section of decomposed rock is easily passed, and the rest of the pitch is of the highest quality (115 feet, 5.12a).

Location

For the final pitch, from the cave belay on The Diving Board, climb up and left to clip first bolt. Follow the line up and back right to finish at the tree atop The Diving Board. Alternately, after the first two bolts, proceed up the hand crack to finish The Naked Edge(5.11d). Finally, another option if climbing the edge is to begin the last picth of the edge, turn the corner clip the fixed hex at the base of the hand crack, step right to make the blind clip, and finish up to the top of The Diving Board (5.11c).

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. For the last pitch, clip 2 bolts, place a #1.5 Friend (or similar), clip a blind bolt from a secure stem around arete on right, place #1 Camalot in slot, clip a final bolt, and finish with a large wire where the climbing backs off.

Photos