Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Eric Johnson, Lynn Hill, Wes Cables, Justin Sjong
Page Views: 3,788 total · 81/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This route begins from the top of the the first pitch of The Naked Edge. Climb the original Kor 2nd pitch past a pin up to a pair of historical bolts. Proceed up the steepening corner to the right. This is easily seen on the cover of the first ed. Levin guide. Gain the slab above and follow the path of least resistance (5.6), at one point stepping right to a stance above an overlap, to the ledge just left of the base of the Pigeon Flake pitch of The Diving Board. A #2 or #3 Camalot is good to have for the belay (5.9, 100 feet). The crux pitch climbs two bolts of 5.10 off the belay where gear can be had in broken bulge. Undercling up to the third bolt and clip two more through the bulge. Arrive at a stance shared with the Diving Board, and extend up to the left and clip a bolt. Follow the incut crack through an overlap and up right to a shallow, left-facing corner with an amazing finger section. Belay at the Black hole belay (DB). It is technical then burly (100 feet). The final pitch is exposed, improbable, and super fun. One small section of decomposed rock is easily passed, and the rest of the pitch is of the highest quality (115 feet, 5.12a).


For the final pitch, from the cave belay on The Diving Board, climb up and left to clip first bolt. Follow the line up and back right to finish at the tree atop The Diving Board. Alternately, after the first two bolts, proceed up the hand crack to finish The Naked Edge(5.11d). Finally, another option if climbing the edge is to begin the last picth of the edge, turn the corner clip the fixed hex at the base of the hand crack, step right to make the blind clip, and finish up to the top of The Diving Board (5.11c).


Standard Eldo rack. For the last pitch, clip 2 bolts, place a #1.5 Friend (or similar), clip a blind bolt from a secure stem around arete on right, place #1 Camalot in slot, clip a final bolt, and finish with a large wire where the climbing backs off.


EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Thank you to everyone who has supported this project, especially ACE/FHRC and Steve M. at the state park! Also a nod to Jeff Lowe for having the vision and name for this line. Jul 22, 2015
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Great effort and addition to Eldo! Way to go, Eric! Oct 23, 2015
Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
Alex Shainman   Las Vegas, NV
THE "King Line" in Eldo.

Excellent effort, Eric! Feb 9, 2016
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
Corey, we just got on it yesterday, and firstly thank you for the fixed draws! Without those it would be quite scary, I agree. Sort of seems out of nature for sport pitch to have those sections made so dangerous with the bolt spacing. I'd advocate for a another bolt or two. The fixed nuts are sure nice, but fixed gear is fixed gear, so why not finish bolting? I'd happily contribute to such an effort. The bolting on the 12a pitch also is a bit dubious, one could fully hit the ledge if you blew the moves to the second bolt (or above it). If you want to leave your long slings in place, I'll also gladly contribute to that effort!

All that said, this is truly one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Front Range. Many thanks and kudos to the FA team! Apr 14, 2017
EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Psyched to see activity up there! As far as I know, it awaits the second ascent. This is an Eldo style bolt/gear route (not a sport pitch). Given the proximity to the Edge and the D.B., bolting it as a sport pitch wasn't considered. It feels adventurous up there to be sure, but if you are thoughtful with the the gear in the section up to the third bolt, it is safe. Reaching to the sixth bolt off the stance at the D.B. feels sporty the first time, but it is easy. One could place a good piece on the D.B. to protect here then step down and back clean it. This bolt was placed above the stance to not detract from the D.B.. On the last pitch, people have fallen onto the first bolt failing to latch the bucket and been fine. Close to the ledge, yes, just have your belayer be on point and maybe clip with a single locker. The blind bolt feels hard to clip the first time up. This was placed as such to not affect the Edge in any way. The cam that protects the stand up into the good stem that allows you to clip is adequate. Get it!

Good effort, Corey. It was hard enough for me to just clip the pre-placed gear! I should have cleaned the stoppers, but they were pretty welded from dogging around up there. I'd be psyched for someone to do it in better style for sure. I also wanted to lead the whole thing (2nd and 3rd) in one but lost my nerve the day I got the crux clean. It would make for a super lead! The other variation that I wanted to do connects into wingless victory at its third bolt from the last crux on BHE, so that awaits a contender.... Apr 15, 2017
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Thanks for keeping it spicy, EDJ! Concerning fixed draws and slings, it seems like this is exactly the route that shouldn't have them. Apr 15, 2017
dameeser   denver
The crack does not need bolts, it takes gear. The addition of bolts on the crack would likely not be approved by ACE. Be seriously careful getting to the third bolt, that shit is choss. Someone needs to go up with a bucket and clean it. Super fun route Eric, thanks for putting in the work! Apr 15, 2017
It's worth noting that it's easy to traverse right from the top of the Edge's second pitch to the base of the crux pitch (5.7-ish). This opens up some higher quality climbing, Lene's Dream, Genius Loci, etc, for the approach. Fantastic route. Respect and thanks to Eric for the hard work and vision. Nov 11, 2017