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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Eric Johnson, Lynn Hill, Wes Cables, Justin Sjong
Page Views: 2,812 total, 96/month
Shared By: EDJ on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route begins from the top of the the first pitch of The Naked Edge. Climb the original Kor 2nd pitch past a pin up to a pair of historical bolts. Proceed up the steepening corner to the right. This is easily seen on the cover of the first ed. Levin guide. Gain the slab above and follow the path of least resistance (5.6), at one point stepping right to a stance above an overlap, to the ledge just left of the base of the Pigeon Flake pitch of The Diving Board. A #2 or #3 Camalot is good to have for the belay (5.9, 100 feet). The crux pitch climbs two bolts of 5.10 off the belay where gear can be had in broken bulge. Undercling up to the third bolt and clip two more through the bulge. Arrive at a stance shared with the Diving Board, and extend up to the left and clip a bolt. Follow the incut crack through an overlap and up right to a shallow, left-facing corner with an amazing finger section. Belay at the Black hole belay (DB). It is technical then burly (100 feet). The final pitch is exposed, improbable, and super fun. One small section of decomposed rock is easily passed, and the rest of the pitch is of the highest quality (115 feet, 5.12a).

Location

For the final pitch, from the cave belay on The Diving Board, climb up and left to clip first bolt. Follow the line up and back right to finish at the tree atop The Diving Board. Alternately, after the first two bolts, proceed up the hand crack to finish The Naked Edge(5.11d). Finally, another option if climbing the edge is to begin the last picth of the edge, turn the corner clip the fixed hex at the base of the hand crack, step right to make the blind clip, and finish up to the top of The Diving Board (5.11c).

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. For the last pitch, clip 2 bolts, place a #1.5 Friend (or similar), clip a blind bolt from a secure stem around arete on right, place #1 Camalot in slot, clip a final bolt, and finish with a large wire where the climbing backs off.

Photos

It's worth noting that it's easy to traverse right from the top of the Edge's second pitch to the base of the crux pitch (5.7-ish). This opens up some higher quality climbing, Lene's Dream, Genius Loci, etc, for the approach. Fantastic route. Respect and thanks to Eric for the hard work and vision. Nov 11, 2017
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
The crack does not need bolts, it takes gear. The addition of bolts on the crack would likely not be approved by ACE. Be seriously careful getting to the third bolt, that shit is choss. Someone needs to go up with a bucket and clean it. Super fun route Eric, thanks for putting in the work! Apr 15, 2017
Corey Flynn   USA
I can understand not wanting to bolt too close to The Diving Board. As far as the long draws go, I think that's just a matter of personal style, I don't want to blaspheme too hard here, but I'm also considering bringing a kneepad up there, Ha! I think it's cool that the upper section is not bolted, b/c it leaves room for folks to place gear on the lead as the fixed nuts are easily removable and would be a fun goal to work towards. Props to EJ for putting this thing up, I remember watching you working on it up there last spring thinking about how crazy it would be to climb up there!

EDIT: the kneepad doesn't really help, but I still managed to get the pinkpoint, so I guess the TRUE second ascent is still up for grabs, whatever that means. I'd be interested to know what style EJ used when he did it. It looks like there's pre-placed gear in some of the pictures Wes Cables put up. Anyways, the long slings will be off Friday/Saturday after my buddy Ben has a chance to send.

Slings are down, last pitch seems unnecessarily dangerous getting to the third bolt on the arete, the gear you get before it is dubious at best, kind a silly for a route that didn't go ground up. Apr 15, 2017
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Thanks for keeping it spicy, EDJ! Concerning fixed draws and slings, it seems like this is exactly the route that shouldn't have them. Apr 15, 2017
EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
Psyched to see activity up there! As far as I know, it awaits the second ascent. This is an Eldo style bolt/gear route (not a sport pitch). Given the proximity to the Edge and the D.B., bolting it as a sport pitch wasn't considered. It feels adventurous up there to be sure, but if you are thoughtful with the the gear in the section up to the third bolt, it is safe. Reaching to the sixth bolt off the stance at the D.B. feels sporty the first time, but it is easy. One could place a good piece on the D.B. to protect here then step down and back clean it. This bolt was placed above the stance to not detract from the D.B.. On the last pitch, people have fallen onto the first bolt failing to latch the bucket and been fine. Close to the ledge, yes, just have your belayer be on point and maybe clip with a single locker. The blind bolt feels hard to clip the first time up. This was placed as such to not affect the Edge in any way. The cam that protects the stand up into the good stem that allows you to clip is adequate. Get it!

Good effort, Corey. It was hard enough for me to just clip the pre-placed gear! I should have cleaned the stoppers, but they were pretty welded from dogging around up there. I'd be psyched for someone to do it in better style for sure. I also wanted to lead the whole thing (2nd and 3rd) in one but lost my nerve the day I got the crux clean. It would make for a super lead! The other variation that I wanted to do connects into wingless victory at its third bolt from the last crux on BHE, so that awaits a contender.... Apr 15, 2017
MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
Corey, we just got on it yesterday, and firstly thank you for the fixed draws! Without those it would be quite scary, I agree. Sort of seems out of nature for sport pitch to have those sections made so dangerous with the bolt spacing. I'd advocate for a another bolt or two. The fixed nuts are sure nice, but fixed gear is fixed gear, so why not finish bolting? I'd happily contribute to such an effort. The bolting on the 12a pitch also is a bit dubious, one could fully hit the ledge if you blew the moves to the second bolt (or above it). If you want to leave your long slings in place, I'll also gladly contribute to that effort!

All that said, this is truly one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Front Range. Many thanks and kudos to the FA team! Apr 14, 2017
Corey Flynn   USA
I'd be curious to know how many people have been on this line. I first rapped in to Traxion this thing last October, and there were fixed nuts up the gear protected portion of the crux pitch. I've made two trips up from the ground over the past ten days, and it doesn't seem like there has been that much traffic considering the same nuts are still fixed in place and the amount of crumbly choss on the pitch breaking off from the Naked Edge. Some notes for those curious: there are two sections on the crux pitch that seem pretty dangerous, getting to the third and sixth bolts, albeit they are on easier sections of climbing. In the description given, it says you will find gear in these sections, this may be true, but it will not make you feel safe. Kind of suspect given how closely spaced some of the other bolts are. I have left long slings on the bolts in question for the sake of my own longevity while working the route. For any detractors, I am close and they will be down soon. Other than the slight spice factor, this thing rocks, and it would be cool to see other folks throwing down up there. Apr 13, 2017
Corey Flynn   USA
Warning: this route will steal your lunch money if given the chance, hope you ate your Wheaties. Oct 20, 2016
THE "King Line" in Eldo.

Excellent effort, Eric! Feb 9, 2016
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Great effort and addition to Eldo! Way to go, Eric! Oct 23, 2015
EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
Thank you to everyone who has supported this project, especially ACE/FHRC and Steve M. at the state park! Also a nod to Jeff Lowe for having the vision and name for this line. Jul 22, 2015