Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, September 1988
Page Views: 4,688 total · 17/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Genius Loci, Spirti of the Place, is one route put up by Alan Nelson that has sparked more controversy than any other. Perhaps the most droll comment to emerge in the brouhaha was the one made by the hapless climber who, climbing The Naked Edge, claimed to be drawn against their will to clip bolts on Genius Loci rather than protecting the Edge with natural gear. Climbing on Genius Loci begins from the belay above the cave and to the left of P1 of The Naked Edge. This is around the corner from the Edge, which is entirely invisible until approaching the top of the Edge's P1. The right hand does work the arete left of the Edge's crack. Climbing is on small edges and corners and is largely very continuous. The pitch is long, finishing up near the end of P2 on the Edge at close to 150 ft. Regardless of the controversy, the climbing on Genius Loci is excellent, tricky, and solid. From the top it is possible to run Jule's Verne on a TR, it also provides a good look at Steve Levin's headpointing masterpiece, Goul's Turn. After all the noise has subsided, it is possible to enjoy this route as the fine line that it is, in a great location, on a brilliant face.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack for approaching The Naked Edge and a dozen QD for Genius Loci itself. The route can be rapped with a 60m rope using the rap anchors for the Edge.