Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | No |
Page Views: | 1,780 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | mike schlauch on Dec 11, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a fun link-up that avoids the somewhat spicey, gear intensive start to After the Gold Rush but still allows you to climb the really fun 12a arete.
Start on the 5.11 finger crack of Le Void (the right of the 2 obvious cracks). Once at the ledge, instead of launching up into the 11d tips layback on Le Void, step right (fun 5.9) to a stance below the bolted arete on After the Gold Rush. This variation is called Avoid (Roger & Bill Briggs, 1973).
Climb the arete past 2 bolts (12a). Step left at the top of the arete to the sling anchor on Le Void. A 60m rope will get you back to the ramp.
If you want a longer pitch -- instead of stepping left to the sling anchor on Le Void, you can also continue up After the Gold Rush (11d) passing one more bolt and then climbing the 5.11 cracks above the roof. Continue to the top via T2 or Seams Beyond or rap with 2 ropes back to the ramp from a horn. Add some extra small gear to the rack if you do this longer version.
Start on the 5.11 finger crack of Le Void (the right of the 2 obvious cracks). Once at the ledge, instead of launching up into the 11d tips layback on Le Void, step right (fun 5.9) to a stance below the bolted arete on After the Gold Rush. This variation is called Avoid (Roger & Bill Briggs, 1973).
Climb the arete past 2 bolts (12a). Step left at the top of the arete to the sling anchor on Le Void. A 60m rope will get you back to the ramp.
If you want a longer pitch -- instead of stepping left to the sling anchor on Le Void, you can also continue up After the Gold Rush (11d) passing one more bolt and then climbing the 5.11 cracks above the roof. Continue to the top via T2 or Seams Beyond or rap with 2 ropes back to the ramp from a horn. Add some extra small gear to the rack if you do this longer version.
Photos
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