Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Jimmy Ratzlaff and Steve Hadik
Page Views: 1,868 total · 10/month
Shared By: Craig Quincy on Dec 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

An excellent bolted slab climb in a fantastic location and with a name from a Bob Dylan song to boot!

Surprisingly this route does not receive as much flack as Genius Loci for being so close to a classic trad route. Perhaps it makes people feel silly to rail against a Slow Train that's coming. Anyway, the climbing is devious and requires wicked foot work on tiny holds. This is a good route to do if you're coming down from the Upper Ramp with time on your hands. It could also be used as an alternative start to the Naked Edge. (But only after you've done the real first pitch.)

After finding your way to the first pitch of the Edge, climb down a few feet and head right around the corner. It's a little airy over there which adds to the excitement. Then climb up and left passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the crux of the climb. Hang in there on small holds and think positive thoughts about your footwork. If your toes are going numb, you're probably doing something right. This route ends at the same bolted anchor as pitch one of the Edge. Eight bolts total, no gear necessary on this pitch.

Protection

10 QDs (plus standard Eldo rack to get up there).

Photos

Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.11a
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.11a
Beautiful face climbing! A little spicy on the easier rock on the second half of the pitch, but safe and enjoyable throughout. Dec 21, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Thin is in!
The 'Slow Train' that is coming is the forearm pump if you are not wearing good edging shoes. Luckily it gets easier as you head up. I got rail-roaded today & finished with nothing left. May 9, 2009
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
 
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
 
I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice. Jul 5, 2010
Moritz B.
  5.10+
Moritz B.  
  5.10+
I´m not too sure about the bolt quality on this one. Rusty and old, the bolts aren´t confidence inspiring. Jun 1, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Route update: the 8 old lead bolts were replaced with 1/2" stainless 5-piece bolts. Per the approved ACE application, bolt 3 was moved slightly left and bolt 6 was moved down.


Link to application

Thanks, ACE, for supplying the hardware. Consider donating at: Donate to ACE. May 23, 2016
Nice rebolting job, Lisa. Actually, that's not a Leeper hanger but an HME (Hughston Mountain Equipment) hanger. You can identify it versus a Leeper by the large carabiner hole. HME hangers are very strong. May 23, 2016
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Japhy Dhungana   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Thanks for the rebolting job - this is an AWESOME route that deserves a lot more attention!

Very well protected throughout (not too spicy at all), and all you need are draws (might want long runners on the 1st and 2nd bolt). The crux is distinctly at the 3rd bolt, but the climbing is fun and engaging throughout with crisp edges on bullet clean rock.

If you've already done that first pitch of the Edge a dozen times, get on this - a fantastic panel of rock that is a completely different style of climbing than the Naked Edge. Also, not much slab climbing on this one, more thin, positive edging... very enjoyable. Sep 29, 2016