Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: |
Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
Fixed Hardware
(8) |
FA: | TR: John Paine FA (post-retrobolt): Bret Ruckman & Bruce Miller, 1997 |
Page Views: | 3,449 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 4, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
[This route was originally TR'd by John Paine and friend in the '80s and called Dizzy Miss Lizzy for John's girlfriend, Liz, who accompanied the climbers and was uncomfortable with the [exposure] of the East Slabs. John gave permission for the retro bolting but asked that the name to remain. Retro-named] Scrutiny on the Bounty, [it] is located on the "Wall of Holes" which is basically in a deep cleft/gully on Tower Two, just above the top-out of Redguard. The route climbs up behind a large pine tree that is growing out of this gully and was quite easy to find.
This route is really, really fun, well-protected, and steep! In fact, there probably isn't an 11 move on the climb, but surviving the pump is what probably gives it the grade.
Make an awkward stretch to a huge jug and make the first clip here. Continue up on incredible huecos to the fifth bolt, and pull onto the slab and a sixth bolt. The crux is probably the transition to the slab where you must step left and making a technical reach to a hidden, incut edge.
Great route!
This route is really, really fun, well-protected, and steep! In fact, there probably isn't an 11 move on the climb, but surviving the pump is what probably gives it the grade.
Make an awkward stretch to a huge jug and make the first clip here. Continue up on incredible huecos to the fifth bolt, and pull onto the slab and a sixth bolt. The crux is probably the transition to the slab where you must step left and making a technical reach to a hidden, incut edge.
Great route!
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