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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 |
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Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Element X T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Genius Loci S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Young, Good Free Face T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, TR
Fixed Hardware
(4) |
| FA: | Steve Dieckhoff |
| Page Views: | 2,679 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | steve dieckhoff on Nov 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is on page 300 of the new Falcon Eldo guide. It is on the corner 50' right of Touch 'N' Go.
An alert belayer is required. Some may call this 's', but I think the risky moves are not within 2 number grades of the difficulty of the crux. A small nut protects a bouldery start, then carefully step up to clip the first bolt. A hold out left expedites this clip. The crux of the first section is found when stepping over the rooflet. A good stopper can be placed at the stance above. The second section follows two bolts out right to the arete, although some have gone straight up from the first, and up to finish on The Contest.
The climbing is technical in spots but there are frequent rests.
My only reason for submitting this route can be found in the following....
No Lo Contendre
This route starts to the left of, and eventually joins, The Contest, hence the name which pleads 'no contest' in a court of law. It came into being after I saw the possibility of the upper half and thought to climb the lower BEHIND THE TREE route to reach it. I led it onsight on natural gear with my friend Mark Miller some time later.
It was an adventure for me, but in those days, I was willing to add bolts to some of my routes after-the-fact and this one seemed appropriate. It had two cruxes that risked very bad falls. It lacked the aesthetic position that might have encouraged me to keep it as a 'death lead'. I asked the opinions of other local climbers who supported the idea.
The fly-in-the-ointment was that the bottom part, the BEHIND THE TREE route, was in the book as having been done before by 'unknown'. I was on the FHRC at the time and thought that proposing to add a bolt in the bottom half and 2 bolts to the top half would make it safer though still as sporty as some other Roof Routes. More importantly, perhaps, was its value as a test case to promote public debate about adding bolts to existing routes. This issue, and the idea of replacing fixed pins with bolts, still lurks.
The FHRC made its decisions in public meetings in those days. I had hopes of a lively discussion, but there was little debate, and it was approved (with me abstaining).
Over the years, I have heard from a few people who were taken aback by this sequence of events. I told them I wished they had attended the meeting and voiced their objections then but that it wasn't too late. If they wanted to propose to remove one or more of them, then they should do so. I used Rawl bolts, so that they could be unscrewed easily and the holes camoflauged. I would be willing to attend the meeting, plead 'no contest', and help with the removal and repair. It was my intention to make the offer for "the good of the community", but it was probably misguided.
I think this is a good time for the debate on this route to take place, and this is a good forum.
take time to care, Steve Dieckhoff 11/6/2001
An alert belayer is required. Some may call this 's', but I think the risky moves are not within 2 number grades of the difficulty of the crux. A small nut protects a bouldery start, then carefully step up to clip the first bolt. A hold out left expedites this clip. The crux of the first section is found when stepping over the rooflet. A good stopper can be placed at the stance above. The second section follows two bolts out right to the arete, although some have gone straight up from the first, and up to finish on The Contest.
The climbing is technical in spots but there are frequent rests.
My only reason for submitting this route can be found in the following....
No Lo Contendre
This route starts to the left of, and eventually joins, The Contest, hence the name which pleads 'no contest' in a court of law. It came into being after I saw the possibility of the upper half and thought to climb the lower BEHIND THE TREE route to reach it. I led it onsight on natural gear with my friend Mark Miller some time later.
It was an adventure for me, but in those days, I was willing to add bolts to some of my routes after-the-fact and this one seemed appropriate. It had two cruxes that risked very bad falls. It lacked the aesthetic position that might have encouraged me to keep it as a 'death lead'. I asked the opinions of other local climbers who supported the idea.
The fly-in-the-ointment was that the bottom part, the BEHIND THE TREE route, was in the book as having been done before by 'unknown'. I was on the FHRC at the time and thought that proposing to add a bolt in the bottom half and 2 bolts to the top half would make it safer though still as sporty as some other Roof Routes. More importantly, perhaps, was its value as a test case to promote public debate about adding bolts to existing routes. This issue, and the idea of replacing fixed pins with bolts, still lurks.
The FHRC made its decisions in public meetings in those days. I had hopes of a lively discussion, but there was little debate, and it was approved (with me abstaining).
Over the years, I have heard from a few people who were taken aback by this sequence of events. I told them I wished they had attended the meeting and voiced their objections then but that it wasn't too late. If they wanted to propose to remove one or more of them, then they should do so. I used Rawl bolts, so that they could be unscrewed easily and the holes camoflauged. I would be willing to attend the meeting, plead 'no contest', and help with the removal and repair. It was my intention to make the offer for "the good of the community", but it was probably misguided.
I think this is a good time for the debate on this route to take place, and this is a good forum.
take time to care, Steve Dieckhoff 11/6/2001
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