Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dan Michael, Chip Chace
Page Views: 3,095 total · 15/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This very aesthetic line tackles the middle of the broad green face left of Jules Verne and, despite its two bolts, offers spicy climbing much like its neighbors.

Begin on the left-trending arch 50 feet up and left of the start of Jules Verne (the coninuation out the arch is Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow -- 5.11+ X). Head about halfway out the arch and turn the lip at one of two spots (a big cam is helpful).

Step right onto the face and move up on slopey features past two bolts to finish either at the Jules Verne anchor or on Lene's Dream for extra value.

It is a sporty but thoughtful pitch on killer stone.

Protection

Quickdraws and some big cams; maybe a TCU or two.

Photos

Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
This is one killer pitch on great rock. This is a tough one to onsight since there was absolutely no chalk up there. Hidden edges continued to emerge as I climbed higher. However, there is some junk rock just after pulling the roof getting to the first bolt. Once you clip the first bolt, it's on like Donkey Kong until you reach the brown band above. Get ready for some "pucker" action above the 2nd bolt! Classic climb on a beautiful wall. Nov 11, 2006
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
Put it away today. What a beautiful climb! Nov 19, 2006
Scott Bennett
  5.11+ R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11+ R
Wow, this pitch is killer! It has everything that makes climbing in Eldo fantastic: great position, (mostly) good rock, tricky and devious movement, and some exciting runouts. You can tell from the lichen that it doesn't get done too often, but that's part of what makes it exciting.

It's an adventerous pitch, so I won't offer too much beta, but I will say I thought that the only really dangerous part of the route was getting to the first bolt. It's mostly easy, up to about 2' below the bolt, but you definitely have to pull a move before you can clip it. I had passed up some possible RP placements below it (thinking it looked easy all the way to the bolt), though, maybe if you took your time you could find something decent to keep you off the deck here.

After that, there's the potential for some big falls, but I can speak from experience when I say that they're pretty clean.

-Scott Apr 8, 2009
Adam Brink
on the road
  5.11+ PG13
Adam Brink   on the road
  5.11+ PG13
Brillant and adventurous slab climbing. Really cool scoop features on the upper headwall. Oct 3, 2012
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
This can be linked with Lene's Dream for one of the best pitches in Eldo! Oct 3, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11+ R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11+ R
What a spectacular route! Especially linking into Lene's Dream! An exciting voyage. The bolts on this need to get replaced eventually. They are fairly old and look to be holding some rust. Maybe there is nothing to worry about, but those two bolts are what are keeping you off the deck.... Either way, I thought this thing was harder than The Wisdom! So good! Apr 8, 2016