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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dan Michael, Chip Chace
Page Views: 2,955 total · 15/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This very aesthetic line tackles the middle of the broad green face left of Jules Verne and, despite its two bolts, offers spicy climbing much like its neighbors.

Begin on the left-trending arch 50 feet up and left of the start of Jules Verne (the coninuation out the arch is Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow -- 5.11+ X). Head about halfway out the arch and turn the lip at one of two spots (a big cam is helpful).

Step right onto the face and move up on slopey features past two bolts to finish either at the Jules Verne anchor or on Lene's Dream for extra value.

It is a sporty but thoughtful pitch on killer stone.

Protection

Quickdraws and some big cams; maybe a TCU or two.

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11+ R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11+ R
What a spectacular route! Especially linking into Lene's Dream! An exciting voyage. The bolts on this need to get replaced eventually. They are fairly old and look to be holding some rust. Maybe there is nothing to worry about, but those two bolts are what are keeping you off the deck.... Either way, I thought this thing was harder than The Wisdom! So good! Apr 8, 2016
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
This can be linked with Lene's Dream for one of the best pitches in Eldo! Oct 3, 2012
Adam Brink
on the road
  5.11+ PG13
Adam Brink   on the road
  5.11+ PG13
Brillant and adventurous slab climbing. Really cool scoop features on the upper headwall. Oct 3, 2012
Scott Bennett
  5.11+ R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11+ R
Wow, this pitch is killer! It has everything that makes climbing in Eldo fantastic: great position, (mostly) good rock, tricky and devious movement, and some exciting runouts. You can tell from the lichen that it doesn't get done too often, but that's part of what makes it exciting.

It's an adventerous pitch, so I won't offer too much beta, but I will say I thought that the only really dangerous part of the route was getting to the first bolt. It's mostly easy, up to about 2' below the bolt, but you definitely have to pull a move before you can clip it. I had passed up some possible RP placements below it (thinking it looked easy all the way to the bolt), though, maybe if you took your time you could find something decent to keep you off the deck here.

After that, there's the potential for some big falls, but I can speak from experience when I say that they're pretty clean.

-Scott Apr 8, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
Put it away today. What a beautiful climb! Nov 19, 2006
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11+ R
This is one killer pitch on great rock. This is a tough one to onsight since there was absolutely no chalk up there. Hidden edges continued to emerge as I climbed higher. However, there is some junk rock just after pulling the roof getting to the first bolt. Once you clip the first bolt, it's on like Donkey Kong until you reach the brown band above. Get ready for some "pucker" action above the 2nd bolt! Classic climb on a beautiful wall. Nov 11, 2006

More About Green Willow Wall

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Fixed Hardware Report (2)