Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Young, Good Free Face
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two
|
|
10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 |
|
|
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Element X T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
|
|
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Genius Loci S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
|
|
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
|
|
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Straight Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
|
|
Young, Good Free Face T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | H. Barber, P. Ament |
| Page Views: | 118 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 17, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
If T2 wasn't hard enough, the holds were too big for you, or the fixed protection was a disappointment, try this line instead! The climbing is remarkably similar to that of T2 but with smaller holds,and no chalk or fixed gear.
Launch into the roof, and pull the lip on small, secure holds. The thuggy crux is getting high enough over the roof to establish yourself on good foot holds. Once your feet are established above the roof, the climbing never exceeds 10b again unless you count the upper portion of O.B.A.C. A cautious leader will go up and left to join T2 unless you have a quiver of small stoppers along and trust them to hold you if you fall.
Location
Head downhill from the start of T2 and just past the base of the old, leaning cottonwood tree growing at the cliff base. Keep an eye out for a conspicuously chalked hold for the left hand 2 or 3 feet in under the lip of the big roof. The route starts on a boulder at the base of the wall, underclings a few big flakes that are visible once on the boulder, hits the chalked cling grip, then heads on out to the lip of the roof hitting edges, flakes and pockets. Once over the roof, the route climbs perhaps 50 feet up before holds run out. The climb then traverses to the right over to join the upper portion of Old Bad Aid Crack, a micro-seam 10' to the right which may be 5.10+.
A variation called On Edge (the lower pitch) traverses LEFT to join T2 at the upper roof instead of right to join O.B.A.C. and is the better protected option.
Protection
A set of cams and nuts most certainly including cams from .75-3" plus stoppers and tricams. Small stoppers (brass) are useful if doing the Rt side option to join Old Bad Aid Crack, and more cams are useful if going left to join T2. The climb is heady, but mostly not in grounfall territory once you pass the roof. Placing gear can be strenuous, however.
Take plenty of long slings.
The crux gear for the independent climbing is cams in diagonal slashes in the rock, for me it was specifically: #0.5, #0.75, #1 and #3 Camalots plus gear on the upper sections. A so-so red Camalot can also be placed in a pocket just over the lip of the roof left of the rail, but it is a strenuous placement to make and not ideal protection, so most climbers probably skip it.
You can TR this line from the T2 anchor as well, placing some gear to minimize the swing into the tree or the rocks uphill if you blow the roof.
0 Comments