Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Stu Richie, Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,812 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mike McKinnon on Aug 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is located to the left of Touch n' Go. It can be toproped from the chain anchor below the 2nd half of Touch n' Go. The route starts under the roof, and a couple of strenous moves about 11c I think get you situated in the roof. It is a strong pull over the roof and then your typical Eldo face climb. This is slabby with little for feet with highly technical and balancy moves.

Protection

[4] bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

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Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
You can easily toprope this route, although I recommend leading it. TR'ing it spoils the mild spice factor. Jul 26, 2005
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
Mark R. and I did the FA in the late '80s right before we went up to Mt. Hooker. Dec 7, 2009
Scott Bennett
Michigan
Scott Bennett   Michigan
Actually four bolts, and a finger-sized cam would protect the move to the first bolt. Dec 8, 2012
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceiling.

I also place a green Alien in a horizontal seam above the last bolt & a couple RPs in the corner before the anchor. A medium stopper (#9?) works before 1st bolt or stick clip. Apr 2, 2013