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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: Stu Richie, Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,597 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mike McKinnon on Aug 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is located to the left of Touch n' Go. It can be toproped from the chain anchor below the 2nd half of Touch n' Go. The route starts under the roof, and a couple of strenous moves about 11c I think get you situated in the roof. It is a strong pull over the roof and then your typical Eldo face climb. This is slabby with little for feet with highly technical and balancy moves.

Protection

[4] bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceiling.

I also place a green Alien in a horizontal seam above the last bolt & a couple RPs in the corner before the anchor. A medium stopper (#9?) works before 1st bolt or stick clip. Apr 2, 2013
Actually four bolts, and a finger-sized cam would protect the move to the first bolt. Dec 8, 2012
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
Mark R. and I did the FA in the late '80s right before we went up to Mt. Hooker. Dec 7, 2009
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
You can easily toprope this route, although I recommend leading it. TR'ing it spoils the mild spice factor. Jul 26, 2005