Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding w/ John Slezak, Christian Ball- April, 2010
Page Views: 1,231 total · 12/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Jun 21, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

"Seams Beyond-5.10bR" is not pumpy, but technical and heady. Hair City-esgue! Start up the 1st crack encountered after the T2 pin traverse,(5.9 bulge), then traverse rightward under a large,loose "suitcase-size block" to step up on to the next diagonal ramp. Step over right even more to some solid jugs. Super thin gear at your feet but dubious (15' from last piece out rightward). Pull out the bulge and place 2 good nuts in a row (5.8), then start traversing 15' to the left on a solid hand rail of buckets.... #1-red Camalot protects a slot just before traversing left on this line of jugs. Now you've reached the TCU-nut crack that brings you another 15' straight up. Place that last nut and climb the "City of Rocks Jugs" until you have to do a slightly run out mantel (5.10a section). Then step up to the wide, diagonal crack and climb straight up. Another few placements and you come to a fairly clean looking crux up a thinly protected face. Don't step out left into the obvious corner! Step up right to find a thin RP seam with fingertip holds. Still thin climbing to a horizontal TCU seam, then finish the crux to finally easier ground. Killer jugs to an occasional placement bring you to the top (5.7R-60')

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. Many thin placements (RPs recommended) 150' pitch to gain the ridge of the Tower Two. There is a slung rappel anchor there to descend down toward the East Slabs Descent.... Or continue to the top to find another slung rappel anchor....

Photos

Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.10- R
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.10- R
Sounds fun, good job! I'll have to check it out. Sep 22, 2010
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.10- R
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.10- R
Finally got to this one, what a nice pitch! Not much gear, but the holds are all incut and mostly solid.

A good finish to many different routes, including After the Gold Rush and Love Minus Zero.

Probably only 2/4 stars by itself, but inevitably you climbed something good to get here, and the position is killer.

-Scott Nov 14, 2012