Bolting for Glory
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: |
Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
Fixed Hardware
(4) |
FA: | Andrea Azoff and Richard Rossiter, 1988 |
Page Views: | 5,589 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Kristo torgersen on May 14, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This excellent finish to Touch 'N' Go breaks off right at the ledge at half height and ascends the smooth face to the right of the Touch 'N' Go's upper section. Start as for Touch 'N' Go, going up and left below the initial overhang and straight up a right facing corner into a slot that turn into a nice finger crack to a ledge. this climbing is no harder than 5.8 and is very accepting of gear. Bolting for Glory goes up and right from the ledge.
The initial moves up to the first bolt are not too difficult, but can be intimidating with a ledge fall possible. Move up and right after the first bolt on smooth dark edges past two more bolts to a horizontal break (the 10a crux is just below this break and well protected by the bolt). Just above this break a handle grip formed by two interconnected huecos can be slung with a standard length runner. Move up and left past a fourth bolt to a leftward move around a bulging corner to finish at the Touch 'N' Go's anchors.
The route is great climbing on sweet edges and a great variation to the ever-popular Touch 'N' Go. Being south-facing and the rock dark colored in nature, the climb can get very hot during the summertime making the holds slicker than they have to be. It's best climbed in the fall or spring (or shade!).
The initial moves up to the first bolt are not too difficult, but can be intimidating with a ledge fall possible. Move up and right after the first bolt on smooth dark edges past two more bolts to a horizontal break (the 10a crux is just below this break and well protected by the bolt). Just above this break a handle grip formed by two interconnected huecos can be slung with a standard length runner. Move up and left past a fourth bolt to a leftward move around a bulging corner to finish at the Touch 'N' Go's anchors.
The route is great climbing on sweet edges and a great variation to the ever-popular Touch 'N' Go. Being south-facing and the rock dark colored in nature, the climb can get very hot during the summertime making the holds slicker than they have to be. It's best climbed in the fall or spring (or shade!).
Protection
Bring a standard rack for the first half of Touch 'N' Go, and then for the Bolting for Glory finish you will need 4 quickdraws (4 bolts) and several standard length runners for a slung hole and the bolt anchors.
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