Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andrea Azoff and Richard Rossiter, 1988
Page Views: 3,583 total, 18/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on May 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


80 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This excellent finish to Touch 'N' Go breaks off right at the ledge at half height and ascends the smooth face to the right of the Touch 'N' Go's upper section. Start as for Touch 'N' Go, going up and left below the initial overhang and straight up a right facing corner into a slot that turn into a nice finger crack to a ledge. this climbing is no harder than 5.8 and is very accepting of gear. Bolting for Glory goes up and right from the ledge.

The initial moves up to the first bolt are not too difficult, but can be intimidating with a ledge fall possible. Move up and right after the first bolt on smooth dark edges past two more bolts to a horizontal break (the 10a crux is just below this break and well protected by the bolt). Just above this break a handle grip formed by two interconnected huecos can be slung with a standard length runner. Move up and left past a fourth bolt to a leftward move around a bulging corner to finish at the Touch 'N' Go's anchors.

The route is great climbing on sweet edges and a great variation to the ever-popular Touch 'N' Go. Being south-facing and the rock dark colored in nature, the climb can get very hot during the summertime making the holds slicker than they have to be. It's best climbed in the fall or spring (or shade!).

Protection

Bring a standard rack for the first half of Touch 'N' Go, and then for the Bolting for Glory finish you will need 4 quickdraws (4 bolts) and several standard length runners for a slung hole and the bolt anchors.

Photos

Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.10a
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.10a
Did not feel at all slippery on this perfect October day. Glad I finally got on it. Been wanting to for a while. Oct 10, 2015
Mark Oveson
Louisville, Colorado
Mark Oveson   Louisville, Colorado
The new bolts are great, Mike. Many thanks.

I agree the holds are slick but felt OK this morning. Get on it early. Aug 1, 2014
Plated 5-piece Powers with SS hangers. Will go back up there and replace the PS with SS sometime in 2013. It sounds like the PS/SS mix should have a pretty long lifetime, but I'd rather get it right sooner. Jan 7, 2013
Stainless steel? Jan 7, 2013
Hardware replaced 6/14/2012 - 4.75" x 0.5" Powers 5-piece + Fixe hangers. Go git 'r done. Jan 7, 2013
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Matt, please feel free to submit an app to the Park and replace those old bolts. The system relies on people like you to get those bolts upgraded, and the routes that could use it are endless. May 1, 2012
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.9
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.9
This route consists of 4 SMC bolts. I think that the hardware could be upgraded and should be upgraded. May 1, 2012
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun. Oct 14, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Yes it's still slippery. Weird to be clipping bolts in Eldo. Fun, short route. Sep 9, 2007
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  5.10a
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  5.10a
Yep, pretty slick in all the hard spots making it seem like one of the harder 10a's the other day. Mebbe someone's greasing up the holds with spray on Pam cooking oil. Replacing those twenty year old bolts would probably be timely. If the first spinner blows, you will definitely eat the ledge, that would suck. Jun 7, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
It is not getting any less slick. Time for an up-grade on the rating if it is a warm day. I soloed this thing in 1995 on my way up to The Naked Edge. These days I am more likely to fall off of this than The Edge itself. Jun 3, 2007
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nice route, more direct than the second half of T&G, kind of slippery. There's definitely a bolt past the hueco. Nov 19, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.10a
Bo Johnston  
  5.10a
I never saw a bolt after the hueco hole that you sling... I kinda climbed up and left to the anchors. Hmmm... Oct 17, 2005
Excellent moves past four well placed bolts, though the polished and somewhat greasy holds made this feel a bit harder than 5.10a to me. The first hanger still spins. Nov 5, 2004
Brian Weinstein
  5.10a
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10a
Yeah, the first hanger is still loose but felt safe nonetheless. Really nice pitch and recommended for variety after P1 of Touch and Go. Sep 20, 2004
Chris Klinga
  5.10a
Chris Klinga  
  5.10a
This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning. Jun 22, 2004
Ashleigh Bilodeaux  
  5.10a
This route was great! The start is a little stiff, or at least it was for me, but over all it was good. Good crimps toward the top and lots of good route finding. I would recommed this at the route to take if trying to get to the first pitch of the naked edge. Jun 10, 2004
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Great route! The first bolt is spinning on its hanger! The rest are in good condition. Bring a sling to sling a hole between the fourth and fifth bolts. I was not sure how to finish the climb but I swung over the dihedral and joined Touch and Go [before the] bolts. Oct 27, 2003
Ben Mottinger

  5.10a
Ben Mottinger    
  5.10a
A green (#2) Splitter cam is useful for the pull over the edge after the 4th bolt. Not necessary, but feels more secure.

The rating seems right for the crux at the 3rd bolt. Sep 19, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
The holds are getting slicker as the years go by.... Mar 7, 2002