Avg: 2.9 from 10 votes
|FA:||Larry Dalke and Pat Ament, '63. FFA: Steve Wunsch and Jim Erickson, '76.|
|Page Views:||2,226 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Bennett on Jan 19, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Le Void starts off the upper ramp, about 30' right of The Serpent, and maybe 100' left of upper T2. To find the climb, look for a pair of left-leaning, left-facing dihedrals that lead up about 40' to a big, overhanging, downward-pointed flake. Start in either corner, the left is 5.9+, the right is 5.11. Both corners are well protected, and they merge on a ledge maybe 40' up.
From here, the route gets much harder, as it ascends the overhanging flake. For the first bit you can use cracks on both sides of the flake, as well as stem. The crux (11d) comes when you have to commit to the right side of the flake. A series of thin, powerful, lie-backing moves culminate in a lunge (at least for me) to a much better hold. From here, the pitch is much easier, and again ends at a small stance with rappel slings.
This is as far as I have ever gone on this route, but according to Rossiter, it continues up though a roof with a thin crack (11d/12a), and then merges with T2 to get to the top of the wall. If anyone has beta about this part, I'd love to hear it.
Tried the roof pitch today, wasn't very impressed. Tons of loose junk, nearly every gear placement and handhold relied upon flakes of dubious quality. If one was willing to yard on the loose stuff, the roof might be 11d, but it's definitely harder if you have any concern for your belayer and anyone one else who might be downrange. In my opinion the first two pitches (easily linked into one) deserve 3 stars, but -1 for the choss-fest roof.
The P3 roof takes thin gear; RPs, Micro cams, etc. Many of the placements on this pitch rely on poor quality rock. There used to be a fixed pin on this pitch, now my partner has it.