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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Sport, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: Eric Johnson, Alex Shainman
Page Views: 794 total, 23/month
Shared By: EDJ on Jan 21, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This pitch has some fun moves on nice stone in a great position. The bulge requires you to get the Led out for sure! It is a great alternative to the junky pitch on upper T2. It is possible to lead from the Upper Ramp from either Love Minus Zero or After The Gold Rush into the shallow corner on L.M.Z. in one mega pitch!

Location

Begin at the small stance where P4 of T2 and P3 of Love Minus Zero join about 120 feet up the wall. A bomber belay with large wires can be set here. Follow bolts up and rising to the left, then over the bulge. Climb twenty five feet of easy ground from the last bolt to the anchor and the belay niche.

Protection

6 bolts to slung horn anchor. Either continue with Seams Beyond or T2 to the summit or rap 60m to the Upper Ramp. You can also get to the Le Void anchor then to the ramp with one 70m rope.

Photos

Chris Kalman
  5.11+
Chris Kalman  
  5.11+
Great climbing and safe (without feeling like an all out sport route).

The crux felt hard at 5.11+ to me but probably in line with Eldo grades. The only other 11+ I've done there was Le Toit Direct (earlier that day), which struck me as a little bit easier. Oct 30, 2017
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
5.12a/b
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
5.12a/b
I'm not sure how you get down rapping to the Le Void anchor... the rat's nest is super tough to get to. We ended up leaving a biner on the two bolts of After the Gold Rush.... Apr 3, 2016
Sputnick
  5.12
Sputnick  
  5.12
Thanks for the time and development of this new line. The technical face and traverse were challenging and fun. I didn't pull the crux roof clean but still enjoyed it. If someone wanted to skip the crux, it looked like you could traverse left into the crack.

Gear beta: after the last bolt, I wasn't sure whether to go left or right to the slung horn. Both looked lichenful and runout. I went left, and it was annoying. I checked afterwards and found a slot for a nut out right and a #2 C4 in a hidden pocket. I'd recommend it. Mar 7, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Fantastic! The traverse is interesting and sustained, and the crux through the bulge is quite powerful. It's somewhat of a reach to make the 2nd clip (extendo cheater draw helped me). Thanks for the route, guys! May 12, 2015
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Thanks for the work. This is a nice line. Mar 8, 2015
EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
This is another route for which to thank A.C.E., GO ACE! Jan 21, 2015