Type: Sport, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: Eric Johnson, Alex Shainman
Page Views: 983 total · 20/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on Jan 21, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This pitch has some fun moves on nice stone in a great position. The bulge requires you to get the Led out for sure! It is a great alternative to the junky pitch on upper T2. It is possible to lead from the Upper Ramp from either Love Minus Zero or After The Gold Rush into the shallow corner on L.M.Z. in one mega pitch!

Location

Begin at the small stance where P4 of T2 and P3 of Love Minus Zero join about 120 feet up the wall. A bomber belay with large wires can be set here. Follow bolts up and rising to the left, then over the bulge. Climb twenty five feet of easy ground from the last bolt to the anchor and the belay niche.

Protection

6 bolts to slung horn anchor. Either continue with Seams Beyond or T2 to the summit or rap 60m to the Upper Ramp. You can also get to the Le Void anchor then to the ramp with one 70m rope.

Photos

EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11+
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11+
This is another route for which to thank A.C.E., GO ACE! Jan 21, 2015
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Thanks for the work. This is a nice line. Mar 8, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Fantastic! The traverse is interesting and sustained, and the crux through the bulge is quite powerful. It's somewhat of a reach to make the 2nd clip (extendo cheater draw helped me). Thanks for the route, guys! May 12, 2015
Sputnick
  5.12
Sputnick  
  5.12
Thanks for the time and development of this new line. The technical face and traverse were challenging and fun. I didn't pull the crux roof clean but still enjoyed it. If someone wanted to skip the crux, it looked like you could traverse left into the crack.

Gear beta: after the last bolt, I wasn't sure whether to go left or right to the slung horn. Both looked lichenful and runout. I went left, and it was annoying. I checked afterwards and found a slot for a nut out right and a #2 C4 in a hidden pocket. I'd recommend it. Mar 7, 2016
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
5.12a/b
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
5.12a/b
I'm not sure how you get down rapping to the Le Void anchor... the rat's nest is super tough to get to. We ended up leaving a biner on the two bolts of After the Gold Rush.... Apr 3, 2016
Chris Kalman
  5.11+
Chris Kalman  
  5.11+
Great climbing and safe (without feeling like an all out sport route).

The crux felt hard at 5.11+ to me but probably in line with Eldo grades. The only other 11+ I've done there was Le Toit Direct (earlier that day), which struck me as a little bit easier. Oct 30, 2017