Type: Trad
FA: Roger & Bill Briggs 1985
Page Views: 1,433 total · 7/month
Shared By: slevin on Jan 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is actually a variation to the 3rd pitch of Rosy Crucifixion. Climb up about 20 feet on P3 of Rosy, place a good piece of gear, then traverse left on friable rock to a small R-facing corner, and continue with the L-diagonal crack system, almost joining Wild Kingdom near the top. The climbing is steep and interesting, with an inobvious crux move and a bit of a runout above (on easier climbing). Adds a good 50 feet of seldom-traveled rock to Rosy...with the Le Toit to Rosy connection (see comments in Le Toit section) and this as a finish, you can pack a lot of climbing into 2 or 3 pitches.

Protection

Have a good selection of TCUs included with a standard Eldo rack.

Photos

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slevin
  5.11b
slevin  
  5.11b
Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL May 2, 2002
I have done this both ways and would advise going left at the top. The right finish requires the leader to yard (In my case, for dear life!) on a huge loose flake that feels like it could come off, a good ways above the last piece. Mar 16, 2003
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
I was climbing Rosy one time while some folks were above us on this route...the leader pulled off a decent sized flake, but somehow managed to keep from dropping it (or falling). Since we were below him as well as people on the lower ramp, he put the thing down his pants and led the rest of the pitch that way! Mar 17, 2003
Adam Brink
on the road
 
Adam Brink   on the road
 
This is a sustained and interesting climb in a great position. The gear is bomber though the hard moves are a bit above your last piece. It seems that this is the logical finish to Rosy instead of simply a varation. Oct 6, 2003
david goldstein
  5.11b
david goldstein  
  5.11b
Steep, exposed face climbing with pretty good rock.

The pro is good except for the 5.9ish traverse left after the crux. A grey (smallest) TCU can provide top rope pro for the crux. A gold Camalot fits perfectly into a hole in an othewise hard to protect area near the end of the pitch.

In my book, a solid Eldo 3 star outing when done in conjunction with Le Toit and Rosy Le Toit.

My partner and I felt that 11C was a pretty soft Eldo rating for this pitch, especially when compared to the "10d" first pitch of Le Toit. Aug 25, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b R
I didn't read any of this before I did this climb and finished right on the bigger holds because I was pumped. I tend to have insecure footwork and stong arms, so I pull a lot harder than average on holds that I can wrap up (at least if the number of holds I spin or break at a gym is any indicator).
I reached the final flake and it creaked and groaned, urging me to back off a little. So yes, I think you can finish on it (I did) but think someday someone big is going to pull hard and it will come off.
It is large enough that should it turn loose it will mame or kill someone below if it hits them. Luckily, the odds of such would seem extremely low. Mar 15, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c PG13
The key piece of gear on the pitch is a blue Alien or 0.2 Camalot. I would suggest 3-4 cams in this size and doubles up to a 0.75 Camalot.

It is possible to traverse to Wild Kingdom's last bolt, if you can't figure out the finishing moves on PJ. May 14, 2006