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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Josh Wharton and Corey Flynn
Page Views: 1,121 total · 91/month
Shared By: j wharton on Nov 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Hayden's Line is perhaps the proudest pitch in Eldo, linking all the difficult climbing on Between Heaven and Earth, with the crux sections of Wingless Victory. The position, and exposure are incredible, and the climbing is quite sustained by Eldo standards.

There is very little "filler" climbing on the pitch, and you enter the Wingless Victory crux with a pump. It's essentially a link up, although it does feature about 10 feet of new terrain. That said, it greatly changes the nature of the routes, and is a truly special pitch, so I think it's deserving of its own name. I think HK would approve.

Words can't express how much HK meant to me. I'll miss you buddy. Respect.

Approach the crux pitch of Between Heaven and Earth via the Redguard route (easiest and quickest option), via Between Heaven and Earth proper (bit chossy), or via The Naked Edge or Lene's Dream (highest quality). For the last option, you do an easy, 5.7, rightward traverse from the top of The Edge's second pitch to reach the crux pitch's belay.

Start up Between Heaven and Earth's crux pitch. At the small roof atop all the hardest climbing, bust left across underclings and around the arete into Wingless Victory (#1 C4 protects this bit). Climb the final twenty feet of Wingless Victory past two ring bolts. A long sling on the first bolt is key to keep the rope running on the east side of the arete, and the second bolt is hard to clip without a draw in place. At the big ledge traverse left to a two bolt belay on The Naked Edge.

From here, you can finish up Sickness Unto Death, The Naked Edge, or rappel and do Centaur.

Some video shot after the FA to remember HK:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6jz3e1_qLM&t=154s.

Protection

A standard Eldo rack. The crux pitch is primarily bolts and a fixed offset, but you need two #1 C4s, a #0 C3, and plenty of alpine draws to manage rope drag.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Nice! That's some out there stuff, Josh. Thanks. Nov 11, 2017
Sick new line! Awesome to see how visionary climbers find such rad adventures amidst popular terrain, but most Eldo climbers would probably not agree that the "proudest pitch" in Eldo is a bolt and fixed nut clip-up next to naturally protected lines that surmount the same proud piece of stone. Mar 15, 2018

More About Hayden's Line

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