Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Josh Wharton and Corey Flynn
Page Views: 1,213 total · 83/month
Shared By: j wharton on Nov 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Hayden's Line is perhaps the proudest pitch in Eldo, linking all the difficult climbing on Between Heaven and Earth, with the crux sections of Wingless Victory. The position, and exposure are incredible, and the climbing is quite sustained by Eldo standards.

There is very little "filler" climbing on the pitch, and you enter the Wingless Victory crux with a pump. It's essentially a link up, although it does feature about 10 feet of new terrain. That said, it greatly changes the nature of the routes, and is a truly special pitch, so I think it's deserving of its own name. I think HK would approve.

Words can't express how much HK meant to me. I'll miss you buddy. Respect.

Approach the crux pitch of Between Heaven and Earth via the Redguard route (easiest and quickest option), via Between Heaven and Earth proper (bit chossy), or via The Naked Edge or Lene's Dream (highest quality). For the last option, you do an easy, 5.7, rightward traverse from the top of The Edge's second pitch to reach the crux pitch's belay.

Start up Between Heaven and Earth's crux pitch. At the small roof atop all the hardest climbing, bust left across underclings and around the arete into Wingless Victory (#1 C4 protects this bit). Climb the final twenty feet of Wingless Victory past two ring bolts. A long sling on the first bolt is key to keep the rope running on the east side of the arete, and the second bolt is hard to clip without a draw in place. At the big ledge traverse left to a two bolt belay on The Naked Edge.

From here, you can finish up Sickness Unto Death, The Naked Edge, or rappel and do Centaur.

Some video shot after the FA to remember HK:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6jz3e1_qLM&t=154s.

Protection

A standard Eldo rack. The crux pitch is primarily bolts and a fixed offset, but you need two #1 C4s, a #0 C3, and plenty of alpine draws to manage rope drag.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Nice! That's some out there stuff, Josh. Thanks. Nov 11, 2017
Sick new line! Awesome to see how visionary climbers find such rad adventures amidst popular terrain, but most Eldo climbers would probably not agree that the "proudest pitch" in Eldo is a bolt and fixed nut clip-up next to naturally protected lines that surmount the same proud piece of stone. Mar 15, 2018