Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Dick Bird, Cary Huston, Dallas Jackson, Dale Johnson, Chuck Merley, 1956
Page Views: 6,666 total · 30/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This is a Redgarden Wall classic. This was the first route put up that went to the top of Redgarden Wall. Apparently, it has claimed more victims than any other on Redgarden Wall, according to Rossiter's guide. Nonetheless, it is worth a trip up. It can get hot in the sun as a fair bit of this rock is dark in color.

This route ascends the groove/corner between the Naked Edge and the Anthill Direct walls. Due to the water and years o'traffic, some sections are a wee bit polished.

P1. This classic pitch is known as the Birdwalk. Follow a shallow, blackened dihedral angling slightly right for 60 feet. This crack has some widely spaced very positive holds and now only has 3 pins left (2nd must be threaded, if used). At the pair of pins (use a long sling), traverse left. There is a good crack for a small cam mid-traverse. From this point, you can either move up and do a foot traverse on the ledge (slightly easier but more schwing potential) or move low and do a hand traverse (reachy for shorter folks) on the ledge. A large cam (#4 Friend or #4 Camalot) will protect your 2nd/3rd nicely near the end of this traverse. Find a 2 bolt Fixe anchor on this large shelf. 70' to rap from here. 90 feet, 5.8+.

P2. Move straight above the anchor in a weird chimney up to the polished ramp. Angle up the ramp perhaps 30 feet. Find an optional belay with modern Fixe bolts (double rope rap to the ground or single to P1 anchors) in the slot/groove to the left at 90 feet or continue up to the end of the ramp below a huge, black dihedral, 5.4. You are near the Touch and Go anchors here.

P3. Continue up the groove to a short lieback, climb up the left wall past 3 pins to a sloping belay on the left. 5.5.

P4. Go up the slippery ramp left for 140 feet to a bi-level hole and belay above this at a pin (#0.5 & #1 Camalots useful). 165 feet, 5.5.

P5. Continue up past 2 more pins to a belay below the huge chockstone (#2 Camalot & #3 TCU useful). 5.7.

P6. There are multiple finishes possible here. The obvious one moves right on to the wall (a bit airy), pass 2 pins, pass a ledge, go to easy terrain and belay. 5.7.

Pitches here may be combined with a longer rope. 3 hours is a reasonable time for the climb.

Descent: East Slabs descent, carefully.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with wires, single set of cams to 4 inches, hexes.

Photos