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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Dick Bird, Cary Huston, Dallas Jackson, Dale Johnson, Chuck Merley, 1956
Page Views: 5,423 total, 29/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

This is a Redgarden Wall classic. This was the first route put up that went to the top of Redgarden Wall. Apparently, it has claimed more victims than any other on Redgarden Wall, according to Rossiter's guide. Nonetheless, it is worth a trip up. It can get hot in the sun as a fair bit of this rock is dark in color.

This route ascends the groove/corner between the Naked Edge and the Anthill Direct walls. Due to the water and years o'traffic, some sections are a wee bit polished.

P1. This classic pitch is known as the Birdwalk. Follow a shallow, blackened dihedral angling slightly right for 60 feet. This crack has some widely spaced very positive holds and now only has 3 pins left (2nd must be threaded, if used). At the pair of pins (use a long sling), traverse left. There is a good crack for a small cam mid-traverse. From this point, you can either move up and do a foot traverse on the ledge (slightly easier but more schwing potential) or move low and do a hand traverse (reachy for shorter folks) on the ledge. A large cam (#4 Friend or #4 Camalot) will protect your 2nd/3rd nicely near the end of this traverse. Find a 2 bolt Fixe anchor on this large shelf. 70' to rap from here. 90 feet, 5.8+.

P2. Move straight above the anchor in a weird chimney up to the polished ramp. Angle up the ramp perhaps 30 feet. Find an optional belay with modern Fixe bolts (double rope rap to the ground or single to P1 anchors) in the slot/groove to the left at 90 feet or continue up to the end of the ramp below a huge, black dihedral, 5.4. You are near the Touch and Go anchors here.

P3. Continue up the groove to a short lieback, climb up the left wall past 3 pins to a sloping belay on the left. 5.5.

P4. Go up the slippery ramp left for 140 feet to a bi-level hole and belay above this at a pin (#0.5 & #1 Camalots useful). 165 feet, 5.5.

P5. Continue up past 2 more pins to a belay below the huge chockstone (#2 Camalot & #3 TCU useful). 5.7.

P6. There are multiple finishes possible here. The obvious one moves right on to the wall (a bit airy), pass 2 pins, pass a ledge, go to easy terrain and belay. 5.7.

Pitches here may be combined with a longer rope. 3 hours is a reasonable time for the climb.

Descent: East Slabs descent, carefully.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with wires, single set of cams to 4 inches, hexes.
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
Be careful on the last pitch! THERE IS A HUGE - 1 TON - BLOCK PERCHED ON ITS NOSE ON A SLOPING LEDGE RIGHT BELOW THE CAVE ON THE LAST PITCH OF THIS ROUTE. It appears to have moved about an inch or so as noted by the grooves/scratch marks behind it. Given its position, it threatens a very large, high-traffic area below. Is there a possibility this can safely be trundled?

Update: today (6/15/16) Gregger Man and Mike McHugh safely trundled this killer block. It exploded and peppered the approach/descent trails with blocks the size of microwaves, and a few of those made it all the way to the river. Glad it's GONE! Thank you, gents, for your efforts! Jun 7, 2016
Byron Murray
  5.8+ R
Byron Murray  
  5.8+ R
Climbed this historic route today with perfect conditions, 56F with no wind and mostly sunny. I would not recommend this route on a hot day due to the polished holds. Doubles in the small cams is recommended, tri cams and the #4 cam was useful on multiple pitches. If the R rating has kept you away from this route, go try the standard route (North Face 5.6 R) on the Maiden. If you like the Maiden and are an experienced Eldo climber, you will appreciate this route. I also recommend a partner that is competent at the same grade. Not a route to bring a beginner sport climber on. Nov 23, 2015
Chris N
Loveland, Co
 
Chris N   Loveland, Co
 
Rodger is right, this route is a CLASSIC. Back in the day of klettershoes and Robbins boots this was considered an awesome climb at the 5.7 level. May 28, 2015
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.9- PG13
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.9- PG13
The OW on P3 was good. Surprised by all the lichen on P6. Most of the route, like climbing on glass. Oct 23, 2010
I now realize why I have never done this before. Clearly the FA party was seeking the most viable way up the imposing wall which, unfortunately, turned out not to be the best climb in the end. The Birdwalk is basically a bunch of rotten rock. Aug 11, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.8 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8 PG13
I've climbed this route 17 times starting in 1960 and forward.... There are 3 standard starts; this description is the famous "Birdwalk" start. A safer and more pleasant one is "Variation to the Lower Meadows" at 5.6+/5.7-. It is also somewhat tricky and many good climbers have fallen on it. It avoids the slick, black rock of the 'Birdwalk" start, however, and makes for a more pleasant experience. This route IS a classic. Jul 18, 2010
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
This is definitely the slickest route I've ever touched in Eldo. Nov 25, 2009
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Nice line, though a bit polished. Agreed, the first and last pitches are good, though the middle pitches are long and easier. I'm afraid to ask what kind of accidents happened here. I'm not sure what pitch gets the 'S' rating as the gear was decent throughout. Very polished. Sep 6, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I agree with Ernie; an experienced leader will have no problem getting reasonable protection on the Birdwalk. However, if you read the accident statistics outside the Eldorado outhouse, Redguard Route is one of the top routes for accidents, along with the Bastille Crack, Calypso, and Tagger. It's not a pitch for a novice 5.7-5.8 leader.

Regarding the photos and the steepness of the route: the crux headwall past the pin is dead vertical. The stance above the pin is a little pumpy too. I look at the angle of the runners hanging from the climber's harness to judge if a photo is tilted. There may be a slight tilt in the first photo, but the other photos are accurate. Sep 22, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.8
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.8
We climbed this today and I lead the P1,3, & 5 and have a few comments. The Birdwalk pitch is a great pitch and protects well. I didn't have any problem with the stance placing pro above the pin. The stance is not that bad, but as Ron notes, I suppose a budding (8) leader could get wigged out right there, if they weren't confident at the grade. We went up and did the first pitch of Anthill and then traversed over to upper Redguard. Last pitch was cool...we did a harder variation to the right of the giant boulder at the top. Also, IMO the photo's below are great but, somewhat deceptive...the photographers angle make the first pitch look steeper than it really is...good route. Sep 22, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
The first and last pitches are stellar; the rest of the climb is mediocre. Be sure to back up the old pin protecting the crux of the first pitch; I used a green Alien. This pitch gets an "s" rating because the next piece of pro after the pin is about 10' higher up at an insecure stance. I placed a #1 Camalot here. If you fall off before getting this piece, you'll land on the ledge below the pin.

Originally rated 5.7, the first pitch has been uprated to 5.8+ in recent guidebooks, probably to discourage 5.7 leaders from attempting it.

The first and last pitches are great; the rest is mediocre. The slick ramp is particularly obnoxious.

Old school 5.7, new school 5.8. Sep 9, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 


Watch out for rockfall, this is somewhat of a high angle funnel.

Perhaps my judgement was clouded because this was the first route I did in Eldo, but it seemed pretty cool. Oct 21, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
 
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
 
The climbing was not very good, but since it has some history and climbs the Redgarden pretty directly, I give it one star. Oct 12, 2002
Joe Collins  
 
The first pitch is pretty entertaining and is a good way to start Anthill Direct if Touch and Go is swamped.I don't think there are pins at the start of the traverse anymore, or at least I didn't see them.

I did the upper pitches once when a threatening storm thwarted our attempt on the Diving Board. We simul-climbed it pretty quickly, but be careful, as the polish is slick-as-snot... probably the slickest polish in Eldo. IMHO, I don't really think the upper pitches are worth doing and certainly not worthy of "classic" status. Some people will probably disagree. Oct 11, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
This was the first route I ever did in Eldo in 1983, and I recall getting a bit freaked out leading the first pitch (alternate and safer starts are possible). The upper section of the route has a nice position and is worth doing, but it seems rarely climbed these days. Aug 19, 2002