Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m), Grade II
FA: Christian Griffith
Page Views: 1,183 total · 16/month
Shared By: j wharton on Feb 19, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Two quality V7-ish boulder problems stacked on top of each other. Despite its diminutive size, it's actually quite good and would probably be a well know "classic" if it were elsewhere in Eldo.

Perhaps this is not worth the approach in its own, but it is a worthwhile diversion after topping out Redgarden. It get's all day shade and is protected from the wind.

Location Suggest change

Venus de Milo is an obscure route hidden in the cleft below Tower Two that also holds the 5.11 Dizzy Miss Lizzy. The cleft is easily identified just above the terminus of the Redguard route. It's easy to access from the east ledges, and is just below to the northeast as you top out The Naked Edge.

Protection Suggest change

Despite the route's R rating in the Levin guide, I think it would actually be a reasonably safe lead, as the two bolts are in the right places, and there is good gear to be had just above, on easy terrain.

That said, we toproped the route by tensioning over from the anchor on Dizzy Miss Lizzy (another worthwhile route), and using gear directionals (#0.75 C4, and awkward #3 C4).

You could probably also build a gear anchor directly above with a bit of scrambling.

Finally, you could mini-track the route easily from a tree along the Naked Edge walk-off. (I think the tree located by the memorial plaque would be best.)

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