Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m), Grade II |
FA: | Christian Griffith |
Page Views: | 1,183 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | j wharton on Feb 19, 2018 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Two quality V7-ish boulder problems stacked on top of each other. Despite its diminutive size, it's actually quite good and would probably be a well know "classic" if it were elsewhere in Eldo.
Perhaps this is not worth the approach in its own, but it is a worthwhile diversion after topping out Redgarden. It get's all day shade and is protected from the wind.
Location
Venus de Milo is an obscure route hidden in the cleft below Tower Two that also holds the 5.11 Dizzy Miss Lizzy. The cleft is easily identified just above the terminus of the Redguard route. It's easy to access from the east ledges, and is just below to the northeast as you top out The Naked Edge.
Protection
That said, we toproped the route by tensioning over from the anchor on Dizzy Miss Lizzy (another worthwhile route), and using gear directionals (#0.75 C4, and awkward #3 C4).
You could probably also build a gear anchor directly above with a bit of scrambling.
Finally, you could mini-track the route easily from a tree along the Naked Edge walk-off. (I think the tree located by the memorial plaque would be best.)
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