Avg: 3.3 from 55 votes
Trad, 3 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, 1962. FFA: R. Briggs, J. Erickson|
|Page Views:||12,794 total · 50/month|
|Shared By:||Kishen Mangat on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1. Traverse left across an obvious, black ramp (spotty pro, 5.6) to left side of the pigeon flake. Continue up the left side of the pigeon flake trending slightly right to a modern two-bolt belay anchor.
P2. From here, traverse left across an airy shelf with modest pro and power up into the steep, left-facing dihedral, belay at a modern two-bolt anchor (5.10c, 80 feet).
P3. Head straight up from the belay into an exhilarating hand / fist / off-width crack (5.11a, 80 feet).
It is possible to link pitches on Redguard, and it is also possible to link pitches 2 & 3 on the Diving Board with careful rope drag management.
This climb is fantastic. The position is among the best in the canyon. It is the Naked Edge's redneck cousin (more fun if a little rough around the edges).