Type: |
Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(10) |
FA: | FA? FFA: Chris Weidner, Nov. 20, 2012, with Heather Weidner and Bruce Miller |
Page Views: | 4,363 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Nov 24, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of The Naked Edge and Diving Board. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.
Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard 105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.
P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.
8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.
P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.
4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.
Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard 105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.
P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.
8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.
P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.
4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.
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