Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: FA? FFA: Chris Weidner, Nov. 20, 2012, with Heather Weidner and Bruce Miller
Page Views: 3,221 total · 44/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Nov 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of The Naked Edge and Diving Board. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.

Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard 105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.

P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.

8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.

P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.

4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.

Protection

Centaur (top 2 pitches only):
RPs, small-medium nuts, 1ea. #000 C3 - #1 Camalot.

Complete route (starting from the ground):
Add 1 each #2, #3 Camalots.

Photos

Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
Nice job, Chris! Nov 25, 2012
Chris N
Loveland, Co
 
Chris N   Loveland, Co
 
Where is the new in this new 1st ascent? How does this differ from the old aid climb Centaur? Aug 3, 2015
Chris Weidner
  5.13c
Chris Weidner  
  5.13c
Chris N., this differs from the aid route only in that the crux has now been free climbed, which typically warrants "new" or "first" status. Aug 6, 2015
This route is fantastic. The crux pitch is somewhat unusual for Eldo: bit of funk, but also some thug climbing, and no sharp grips. The 12+ pitch might be even cooler, with amazing position, and lots of interesting climbing. All the fixed gear is due for an update. It would also make sense to put in a two bolt belay, at the no-hands stance atop the crux pitch. Well done, Chris! Nov 10, 2017
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
The bolts on pitch two were replaced with fat glue-ins. The 1/4" bolt at the belay for the first pitch was also replaced with a fatty. Nov 11, 2017
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
I dogged my way up this amazing route on Saturday. It appears someone is projecting it, unfortunately my partner cleaned the final fixed nut near the end of the last pitch thinking it was mine, we left it in an obvious place at the top of the route. The last pitch has several large loose blocks that people should be aware of when trying this route, they are kind of in obvious. Oct 21, 2018