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Centaur [Suggest Change]
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 |
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Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: |
Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(10) |
| FA: | FA? FFA: Chris Weidner, Nov. 20, 2012, with Heather Weidner and Bruce Miller |
| Page Views: | 2,923 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Nov 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
2018 Rattlesnake Gulch area closures, effective immediately. The closures are to protect nesting golden eagles in the park.
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description [Suggest Change]
Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of The Naked Edge and Diving Board. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.
Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard 105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.
P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.
8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.
P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.
4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.
Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard 105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.
P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.
8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.
P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.
4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Centaur (top 2 pitches only):
RPs, small-medium nuts, 1ea. #000 C3 - #1 Camalot.
Complete route (starting from the ground):
Add 1 each #2, #3 Camalots.
RPs, small-medium nuts, 1ea. #000 C3 - #1 Camalot.
Complete route (starting from the ground):
Add 1 each #2, #3 Camalots.
Estes Park, CO
Loveland, Co
denver
USA
USA
Edit: Was able to send-taur the crux pitch today, 12/6/17, in sub 40 degree connies. I kept numbing out in the shade trying to finish off the 12c pitch, I had a frozen foot pop after the crux on my best go. Bummer, oh well, will have to come back to complete the "send." Such rad climbing! Nov 15, 2017