Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mark Tarrant, et al
Page Views: 1,774 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on May 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the "sport route" that climbs above The Serpent on Upper Redgarden. This is a unique and really cool route that I think should get more attention (and a star in the guidebook). Start with the boulder problem on The Serpent, then follow that sparsely protected route for 30 or 40 feet. When The Serpent trends left, keep going straight up, aiming for a shallow, left-facing corner system. Eventually, you'll clip the first of 8 bolts. From here, the view upward is very disheartening (it looks blank!), but hidden holds keep appearing. The first crux is right where the route veers left under a roof, and the second is at the very end and is the one of the few hard routes I've ever done where the crux of the climb is downclimbing! This is sort of like a harder, leftward version of Le Boomerang.

Protection

Bring wires, Tri-cams, etc. for the start, quickdraws for the second half.

Photos

Sensational. Two different climbs in one pitch: trad Eldo mankfest followed by high quality and well protected steep Eldo slabbing. You'll feel you've earned your bolts after dealing with the first 40' of infrequent protection and questionable rock. Not a one move wonder by any means but I thought there was a distinct crux near the top of the corner. Apr 27, 2004
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
I totally agree with David's comment. For me, the only thing that keeps me from doing this pitch regularly is the first 30' or so of questionable rock with scant pro (I did get a really good blue Totem in about 15 feet off the deck). Once you pull a small overlap and get onto the huecoed wall, the quality of the rock improves dramatically. The runout continues, but the climbing is pretty easy. I was able to get 2 pretty good finger-sized cams just below the first bolt, which is about 50 feet off the deck. Unfortunately, the bolts are vintage with SMC hangers, but you're so happy to finally get to one that it hardly matters! The bolted part of the climb is absolutely dreamy. All in all, this route is pretty damn cool.

Gear recommendation: a single set of cams from green Alien to #0.5 Camalot, and 8 draws for the bolts. May 4, 2019