Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mark Tarrant, et al
Page Views: 1,592 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on May 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the "sport route" that climbs above The Serpent on Upper Redgarden. This is a unique and really cool route that I think should get more attention (and a star in the guidebook). Start with the boulder problem on The Serpent, then follow that sparsely protected route for 30 or 40 feet. When The Serpent trends left, keep going straight up, aiming for a shallow, left-facing corner system. Eventually, you'll clip the first of 8 bolts. From here, the view upward is very disheartening (it looks blank!), but hidden holds keep appearing. The first crux is right where the route veers left under a roof, and the second is at the very hand and is the one of the few hard routes I've ever done where the crux of the climb is downclimbing! Sort of like a harder, leftward version of Le Boomerang.

Protection

Bring wires, Tri-cams, etc. for the start, quickdraws for the second half.

Photos

Sensational. Two different climbs in one pitch: trad Eldo mankfest followed by high quality and well protected steep Eldo slabbing. You'll feel you've earned your bolts after dealing with the first 40' of infrequent protection and questionable rock. Not a one move wonder by any means but I thought there was a distinct crux near the top of the corner. Apr 27, 2004