Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Roger Briggs & Scott Woodruff, 1976
Page Views: 4,066 total · 22/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 9, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Lene's Dream is an outstanding face climb in an outrageous position. It also makes a great finish to Jules Verne - it parallels the second pitch of the Naked Edge as Jules Verne parallels the first.

Climb the crux runout pitch of Jules Verne, place good gear in the rotten band, and, instead of traversing left, continue straight up to a nice stance above the band. Here you can place good gear and survey the climbing above. Continue up on 5.10+/5.11- technical face to an obvious slot for a green Alien or similar cam. The crux is the next ten feet or so of climbing (11c).

Finish by cutting over to the Edge at the point on the second pitch where you turn the corner from the slab to the steep face. I think the S/VS rating Rossiter gives the climb may be for Jules Verne? Lene's Dream seemed fairly well protected, although it requires a willingness to move above small, albeit good, gear.

Protection

Small stuff. A 0.5 Camalot protects the initial moves; a Green Alien protects the crux.

Photos

Borderline 'VS' for the Jules Verne face... mild, fuzzy-'S' for Lene's Dream. Nov 20, 2003
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
If you are going to do Jules Verne this is definitely a better way to finish than traversing left and following the regular ho hum finish. Jul 6, 2004
Ben Walburn  
 
A must do for the finish on Jules Verne. The runout ain't that bad. Mar 24, 2011
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
Took the whip from as far from the gear as possible.... Wasn't bad. Bomber 0.3 C4 or green Alien in the small roof. Don't be a moron, go straight up the green and red border. Sep 17, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c PG13
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c PG13
Definitely not R, though it has its moments. Apr 8, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
What a fun way to finish JV!

I also took the whip from as far away from the gear as possible, and it was exciting but not bad. Ended up back down slightly below the JV rotten band.
A 0.3 is bomber, Black Totem also fits great! Dec 4, 2017
David A. Turner
  5.11b/c PG13
David A. Turner  
  5.11b/c PG13
Took one of the longest whippers of my climbing career on this pitch in mid-'90s. Belayed by a French sport climber whose English was not the best, I did not do a very good job impressing on him how runout it was going to be while standing at the belay. I think he got a much better impression after I lobbed off. Dec 10, 2017