Avg: 3.5 from 270 votes
Trad, 3 pitches
|FA:||Rick Horn and Pat Ament, 1965. FFA: Bob Williams and Dave Oh|
|Page Views:||19,055 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Schneider on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The second pitch really has to be done if you want the fully C'est La Vie experience. Go straight up the huge dihedral. The 5.11c crux is only about 10 feet above the belay, which sits on a small ledge. Two fixed pins ripped recently so there is virtually no pro to keep you from cratering on the ledge if you rip, but many argue it is well worth the risk. From the top, rap to the first set of anchors and then to the ground.
Per Bill Briggs: The route has an exhilarating third pitch that is sadly neglected because the double bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch was not placed at the original finish of the second pitch. Now everyone lowers off the bolts and misses the third pitch. The climb should be completed as follows. Clip the bolts at the top of the second pitch dihedral, then climb another 20 feet to a good stance beneath a six-foot overhand; good anchors can be found here. The third pitch surmounts the overhang with the help of some solution pockets above the lip and a heel hook. Once standing on the lip of the overhang, a medium cam can be placed in a solution pocket. Two more tricky moves up and right lead to easier climbing. The moves are probably 5.10. This pitch used to be the standard finish to the route and was done regularly.