Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: Rick Horn and Pat Ament, 1965. FFA: Bob Williams and Dave Oh
Page Views: 17,963 total · 75/month
Shared By: Ben Schneider on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Brilliant. Pat Ament has had many first ascents in Eldorado, but few are as perfect and fun as this one. Begin perhaps 20 feet left from the start of C'est La Morte. The first tricky face moves begin from a nice, flat rock. Then enter a broken crack system and move up past one bolt, a fucked-up knifeblade (no longer there) that [was] a perfect example of horrible fixed pro, and past one more bomber bolt right below the crux, which takes you up a hollow flake. The first set of anchors are 20 feet past the crux. From here you can lower, 75 feet, or continue up through an easy A shaped roof and then do an airy traverse left to another set of anchors, 100 feet. This sets you up for the second pitch, if you're up to it....

The second pitch really has to be done if you want the fully C'est La Vie experience. Go straight up the huge dihedral. The 5.11c crux is only about 10 feet above the belay, which sits on a small ledge. Two fixed pins ripped recently so there is virtually no pro to keep you from cratering on the ledge if you rip, but many argue it is well worth the risk. From the top, rap to the first set of anchors and then to the ground.

Per Bill Briggs: The route has an exhilarating third pitch that is sadly neglected because the double bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch was not placed at the original finish of the second pitch. Now everyone lowers off the bolts and misses the third pitch. The climb should be completed as follows. Clip the bolts at the top of the second pitch dihedral, then climb another 20 feet to a good stance beneath a six-foot overhand; good anchors can be found here. The third pitch surmounts the overhang with the help of some solution pockets above the lip and a heel hook. Once standing on the lip of the overhang, a medium cam can be placed in a solution pocket. Two more tricky moves up and right lead to easier climbing. The moves are probably 5.10. This pitch used to be the standard finish to the route and was done regularly.

Protection

If you are only doing the first part of the first pitch all that is needed is three quick draws, a #10 BD Stopper, and a #2 Camalot.

Photos