Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m) Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: J. Achey and B. Feiges, 1977.
Page Views: 908 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

A great crux on a so-so route. If all of the climbing were as good, it would be famous instead of obscure. This would be a hard start to Sidetrack, or an early bail-out off of Book Of Numbers. It shares most of its climbing with one or the other, but since it preceded Book Of Numbers by a decade, I suppose it has its own place. And since not everyone climbs 12c, perhaps it makes the bottom of the Book Of Numbers accessible.

Locate a 2-meter section of right-facing dihedral that hangs perhaps 10 meters off of the ground. This is capped by a small roof on its right side.

Climb up to the corner (5.8, S) and into the corner (good pro, a large stopper or 1.5" cam) and then do the crux to get up through the corner and past it (5.10). From the corner, angle up and left, following a general line of weakness past some of the funkiest holds in Eldo. Not bad, just funky. You have joined Sidetrack/Anthill DIrect. Continue past some museum-quality, antique, fixed pins and up and left to a 2-bolt belay/rap.

To descend, rap to the top of the tower above 'The Contest' then rap that route.

Location Suggest change

This route is obscure, but not hard to find. Just left of Genesis, about 1/2 way between Genesis and The Contest, a short section of dihedral hangs 10 meters up off of the ground. The route starts below this and climbs up through it, then left along a ramp system to join 'Sidetrack' and 'Anthill Direct.'

Protection Suggest change

Not a lot... The crux is reasonably protected by a large nut and a 1.5" cam if you doubt it down. Take a load of 2-foot slings and a few wide-hands to fist-sized pieces. Every now and then a fixed piece will pop up for good gear.


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