Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Brooks and Chris Snyder, 1980
Page Views: 157 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is pretty fun, worthy of 1+ star alone, but since it is a variation of the 2nd pitch of Anthill Direct, it requires some brilliant climbing to get to it and after it. It gets 2+ stars overall. This pitch adds to Anthill Direct in terms of difficulty, and if you've done A.H.D. a few times, perhaps a 'new territory' pitch is a refreshing change. It is harder, more thought provoking, and a wee bit difficult to protect in one spot.

P1: Climb the first few feet of Anthill Direct's second pitch, and just as it becomes a handcrack, move out and right up a clean slab to intersect a steep crack and buttress on the right. Climb a thin, dark crack and flake up past a 9+ (or perhaps 5.10, as my partner suggested) move to reach good clings and locks, then continue on good gear to the top, stepping left on a big ledge to the Anthill Direct belay. (2 pins + supplemental gear). Continue with Anthill Direct.

Protection

A standard light rack predominantly below 1.5." The crux would ideally have a better directional than I got to keep the crux stopper from popping out... if you popped and it popped, you are certainly going to get hurt. I might have just lazily missed the best pro.

Photos

I read about this route in the old Ament guide and thought it sounded like a good adventure off the beaten path. So I asked my old friend Mike Brooks about it, and he just laughed. I never did do the route, because I wasn't quite sure were it went. Ament's guidebook descriptions could be kind of ambiguous. Oct 27, 2012