Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Jimmy Ratzliff & Austin Weis - 1987
Page Views: 875 total · 4/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This climb starts between Backtalk and the Bulge, up the center of the low angle "ramp" system that sticks out from the wall right at the ground. Once you locate the two bolts of Blackwalk, look right and locate the two bolts of Backtalk. Careful inspection further right will reveal three more bolts - this is Backstroke. The first two bolts are decent, the third is actually a thin piton up and right, on easier ground.

Climb straight up to the first bolt using a pinch/undercling to work your feet up. This is probably solid 11b. Clip the first bolt, and execute a very hard move using a tiny side pull for the left hand and a good highstep for the left foot - reaching up to a decent but sloping "ledge". I dyno'd for this and slapped it several times - it was very hard, but my partner was able to reach it statically - definitely the way to go. The climbing gradually eases through the second bolt. From here head up and right to the third bolt on easy climbing, then carefully head straight left for 20' to the Backtalk anchors.

Protection

Three bolts protect this routes, and probably very small cams and RPs. I TR'd this route and recommend this (although setting it up can be tricky). Although I didn't spend a lot of time looking for gear placements, the climb struck me as being a dangerous lead - especially reaching the first bolt.

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