Avg: 1 from 4 votes
Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
|FA:||Jimmy Ratzliff & Austin Weis - 1987|
|Page Views:||991 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Oct 25, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Climb straight up to the first bolt using a pinch/undercling to work your feet up. This is probably solid 11b. Clip the first bolt, and execute a very hard move using a tiny side pull for the left hand and a good highstep for the left foot - reaching up to a decent but sloping "ledge". I dyno'd for this and slapped it several times - it was very hard, but my partner was able to reach it statically - definitely the way to go. The climbing gradually eases through the second bolt. From here head up and right to the third bolt on easy climbing, then carefully head straight left for 20' to the Backtalk anchors.