Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Tony Bubb & Joseffa Meir, 9/10/11(?)|
|Page Views:||836 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 11, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
While the climbing on this is physically closer to Horizontal Beginnings, it is more consistent in difficulty and nature with 'Cleopatra Says There Will Be a Chance of Rain From the North', and thus I chose to name this variation similarly to that route. Since we did it on my birthday, the name seemed to fit.
Starting up the dark water streak as for Horizontal Beginnings, pull up under the apex of the large roof and below a short section of hand-to-fist crack. Place gear, get established in some underclings, place more gear in the hands-to-fist flare, and pull the roof directly into the short, shallow, and flaring crack onto the arete and face above and right of 'Horizontal Beginnings.' There is a finger-lock above the fist section and the arete is pinch-able. Continue a move up the arete on the right side and run it out on moderate terrain (5.7?) to another overlap, the climb up over this and beyond to join Pseudo Sidetrack.
The independent moves on this line are pretty cool and on pretty good rock and worth trying. It is powerful and somewhat gymnastic climbing. My much shorter partner found that the roof was very hard if you don't have the height to pull the 4-5 foot roof with your feet still on the back wall.
This variation route starts up the dark water streak as for Horizontal Beginnings, just left of the original start as for Anthill or Pseudo Sidetrack.