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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956
Page Views: 2,439 total, 30/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Starting from the big Juniper on the Juniper Ledge, follow the rotten red ramp up and left to the end. Establish a belay here for the exposed climbing that follows. Make an exposed step out and around the end of the ledge onto the face, staying high beneath a small roof; continue up to a good ledge. Possibly belay here to diminish rope drag. This route zig zags around some. Follow a good crack, that had 2 still-good pitons, back right to the arete and another old piton. Slant up and left to a belay beneath an overhang. Traverse left to a tree and then up to complete the route.

Downclimb the massive East slabs to get off.

Location

This starts from the "Juniper ledge" at the end of the first pitch (60 meter rope; if done with a 50 meter rope, it will require 2 pitches)of "Pseudosidetrack." Downclimb East Slabs to the North. Awesome exposure for an easy route!

Protection

Normal rack of wired stoppers, and a couple cams to #2 Camalot or "Friends."
fossana
leeds, ut
5.7
fossana   leeds, ut
5.7
Adding some clarification to the route description here:

P1-2 From the saddle between Redgarden and Whale's Tail, take the right-trending ramp that is shared with Pseudo Sidetrack. You will come to a large ledge with 2 pine trees (Sidetrack Junction).

P3 From Sidetrack Junction, take the next left-trending ramp.

P4 Delicately step around the corner on rotten, exposed, but easy rock, and hand traverse slightly up and left to join Anthill Direct. From here, follow a right-trending thin crack (5.7) then up a scooped face ending at a small ledge below a dihedral/roof (the Direct 5.9- crux) with a ramp heading off left.

P5 Follow the ramp system left, staying on the path of least resistance over blocks and up a final short chimney to the summit. Jan 29, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
According to Levin, the FA is Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956, just one week after the FA of Redgaurd. There's a great story regarding the name of this route, in Levin's "Eldorado Canyon, a Climber's Guide." Jan 3, 2012
I just responded to an email and answered a question about the start of this route. My description above assumed that the "first pitch" of Pseudo Sidetrack was done using a 60 meter rope, up to the juniper ledge formerly called "Sidetrack Junction." BITD, this was 2 moderate pitches, and another short lead out to the end of the red ramp.

Hope this clarifies things a bit. Jun 1, 2011
This is a good moderate route on which to avoid the crowds on a weekend. Decent climbing and some great exposure, too. Mar 19, 2011