Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956
Page Views: 2,658 total · 28/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Starting from the big Juniper on the Juniper Ledge, follow the rotten red ramp up and left to the end. Establish a belay here for the exposed climbing that follows. Make an exposed step out and around the end of the ledge onto the face, staying high beneath a small roof; continue up to a good ledge. Possibly belay here to diminish rope drag. This route zig zags around some. Follow a good crack, that had 2 still-good pitons, back right to the arete and another old piton. Slant up and left to a belay beneath an overhang. Traverse left to a tree and then up to complete the route.

Downclimb the massive East slabs to get off.

Location

This starts from the "Juniper ledge" at the end of the first pitch (60 meter rope; if done with a 50 meter rope, it will require 2 pitches)of "Pseudosidetrack." Downclimb East Slabs to the North. Awesome exposure for an easy route!

Protection

Normal rack of wired stoppers, and a couple cams to #2 Camalot or "Friends."
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
This is a good moderate route on which to avoid the crowds on a weekend. Decent climbing and some great exposure, too. Mar 19, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
I just responded to an email and answered a question about the start of this route. My description above assumed that the "first pitch" of Pseudo Sidetrack was done using a 60 meter rope, up to the juniper ledge formerly called "Sidetrack Junction." BITD, this was 2 moderate pitches, and another short lead out to the end of the red ramp.

Hope this clarifies things a bit. Jun 1, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
According to Levin, the FA is Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956, just one week after the FA of Redgaurd. There's a great story regarding the name of this route, in Levin's "Eldorado Canyon, a Climber's Guide." Jan 3, 2012
fossana
leeds, ut
5.7
fossana   leeds, ut
5.7
Adding some clarification to the route description here:

P1-2 From the saddle between Redgarden and Whale's Tail, take the right-trending ramp that is shared with Pseudo Sidetrack. You will come to a large ledge with 2 pine trees (Sidetrack Junction).

P3 From Sidetrack Junction, take the next left-trending ramp.

P4 Delicately step around the corner on rotten, exposed, but easy rock, and hand traverse slightly up and left to join Anthill Direct. From here, follow a right-trending thin crack (5.7) then up a scooped face ending at a small ledge below a dihedral/roof (the Direct 5.9- crux) with a ramp heading off left.

P5 Follow the ramp system left, staying on the path of least resistance over blocks and up a final short chimney to the summit. Jan 29, 2012