Type: Trad, 120 ft, Grade II Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Pat Ament & pals, 1964
Page Views: 911 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

An independent pitch with independent good climbing, perhaps this is referred to as a variation because it was used as an alternate finishing pitch to Pseudo Sidetrack.

From the twisted juniper, climb up and into a hanging dihedral past some broken rock and so-so gear to reach a striking corner with a 1.5-3" handcrack. Climb this to the top and then go up and right, getting gear whenever possible, so as not to be for want of it later. You will head up and right out of the corner and see an old bolt with an old round aluminum hanger out and right on a sloping shelf. Clip it with a long sling (and screamer) or bypass this in favor of some small nuts left of it behind a 4" thick flake. Continue up and right through a bulge (bad gear, but good holds, 5.8?) and up to lower angle climbing, jugs,and more gear. Traverse right into trees and belay on upper juniper ledge (90') or continue up and finish as for the final roof of Archer McLanahan to the left (5.8+?).

Descend via the descent as for 'The Bulge' or via East Slabs if finishing on Archer McLanahan.

Location

This climb starts in the big left-facing dihedral down and right from Archer McLanahan. This is up and left from the big, twisted, gnarled juniper tree on Lower Juniper Ledge, after 2 pitches of Pseudo Sidetrack, or after finishing the pitch above C'est La Vie, Continue-Us, or C'est La Fin.

Protection

A standard light rack with a few long slings. The best part of the climb is a hands to thin hands crack in a solid corner, but there is a funky start with lesser gear (5.7?) and a steep finish on face holds (5.7 to 5.8, S) that is protected by an ancient bolt and round aluminum hanger... I didn't bother clipping it, placing a few small nuts instead and climbing more directly.

Photos

slevin  
The old pop-top hanger and hex-head screw-in stud (!) has been replaced with a stainless Fixe bolt and hanger.

This is still an R-rated pitch with poor pro at the crux. Jun 12, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Poor to no pro at the crux, actually. Still the lower hand crack is a blast, and the crux is reasonable if you're solid at the grade. Jul 24, 2010