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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler, Dan Stone, Glen Randall, 1978
Page Views: 775 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 24, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a cool, "semi-wild" route left of P2 of Anthill Direct that is rarely done. I've never seen anyone on it, and there was no chalk. I've wanted to do this since I first noticed it a couple of years ago from P2 of Anthill Direct.

The adventure is good, position is good, high above the creek and across from The Edge, but the approach and descent involve some work, and the rock has some powdery green lichen which raises the stress level. And there's the scary roof crux.... Maybe 1.5 stars?

There's no gear at the crux roof. The gear is 4 to 5' below, and it's one bomber big brass and another fair brass with better gear below. The roof is reachy and strenuous, and it's not totally clear how to do it. I nearly fell off when my left foot skated off a flake I was pushing off of to increase my reach.

The route: the Rossiter topo shows the climb starting on P2 of Anthill Direct and then angling left across the slab to the base of the vertical crack. We climbed further left, skirting the initial ceiling, up a left angling ramp (good horns to sling), and then angled right on easy ground to the base of the crack. You could also climb more directly up the slab with no gear. The lower part of the crack, up the slab to the base of the headwall, has good gear. The first moves up the headwall are a bit spooky. With difficulty, you can get a fair medium brass to protect these moves. The climbing above is well protected and interesting, with a balancy move to get up to the roof. Get as much gear as you can, since there is no gear at or above the roof. Climb straight through the roof (don't move right through it, although that may also work), protect your second well, and traverse straight right to the Anthill Direct P2 belay.

Descent: if you're familiar and comfortable with Anthill Direct, the best "descent" may be to continue up on Anthill Direct. Otherwise, you can rappel to the Upper Ramp and then off of good bolt anchors in two single-rope or one double-rope rappels to the ground. There are currently two good pins at the top of P2 of Anthill Direct, but there may be no slings and rings. You'll want webbing and rings or leaver biners. If you want to backup the pins with a nut, you'll want more webbing. We left a good, big brass nut in a crack to the right and connected it all with an old cordalette. The rappel passes some large blocks and you land to the right of the Anthill Direct P1 anchor bolts. Easily hike left to those bolts, and then rap from there to the ground.

Location

Approach: Semi-Wild starts from the lowest end of the Upper Ramp, at the top of P1 of Anthill Direct. It's the crack to the left of P2 of Anthill Direct that starts about 1/2 way up the pitch. Get there via Touch and Go or Anthill Direct or by one of the variations right of Touch and Go. Make sure to belay at the Anthill Direct anchors close to the upper wall rather than at the Touch and Go anchors.

Protection

2+ sets small cams from green to red Alien, doubles above that to #2/yellow Camalot, 1 or 2 sets brass nuts, 1 set bigger nuts to 1", 20 slings, 1/2 full length, and 2 ropes to rappel. Double ropes are handy on the lead. Bring webbing and backup gear to rig the rap anchor.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Some wasps on it, but they are NOT nesting and not aggressive. I just shooed them off and out of the cracks, placing gear right where they were on occasion (one here and there for 40'). I think they like the dark rock in fall/winter there.

The runout is really not so bad anywhere that the climbing is 5.8 or harder. The crux protects on small stoppers and an Alien or two within 10' of a secure stance post-crux.

The climb can be done in 3 pitches ground to summit.

P1. However you like - Touch And Go, Lower Meadow Var., Crack Var., whatever - up to the 2 bolt belay on the South-facing ramp below the start of Anthill Direct (5.depends, 150+'?).
P2. Up Semi-Wild to Join Anthill Direct, belay on a purple Camalot and 2x pitons below the first high roof on the Anthill Wall (5.9++, 220').
P3. Up to the arete on good gear (pass a ring piton 5 meters up) and then under the roof, skipping that belay, then up to the top and up the slab to a good belay at a horizontal with 1.5-3" cams for pro (5.9, 200'). Nov 12, 2016
Tony's tale reminds me of an experience I had on this route back in late eighties:I had to back off S.W. because I had blown out the inside toes of my Sportiva Monolo's. Remember the old green shoes that were built with a symetrical last. The idea was that the shoes could be worn on either foot (there was no left and right) and when you blew out the inside toe, you could just swap them around and wear them on the other foot. A nice idea but the problem was that once you wore them they conformed to your foot and then when you tried to swap them, it was like trying to wear standard shoes on the wrong feet.Anyway, my feet were in absolute agony, so my partners and I decided to bail. I was so distraught that, without thinking, I tossed the rap line down without calling "rope!"I was [embarrassed] beyond belief when my rope nailed a guy who was roping up at the base. That guy was Layton Kor. He had come out of hibernation and was climbing with Justin Kramer, a kid from his neighborhood. I finally got to meet my hero and the circumstances of our meeting was not as I had hoped.Boy did I feel like an an idiot. The one time I tossed the bail line without giving warning and I nail Colorado's most prolific and famous climber. Sep 22, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
For the second time in 8 years I've backed off of this pitch- there is a nest of yellow jackets in it about 2 meters up the crack from the blank slab. They are aggressive. Sep 19, 2005
I'm pretty sure "Upper Ramp" should be replaced with "Lower Meadow" in a few places in this description. Aug 26, 2005