Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft (39 m)|
|FA:||Charlie Fowler, Dan Stone, Glen Randall, 1978|
|Page Views:||1,213 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Aug 24, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The adventure is good, position is good, high above the creek and across from The Edge, but the approach and descent involve some work, and the rock has some powdery green lichen which raises the stress level. And there's the scary roof crux.... Maybe 1.5 stars?
There's no gear at the crux roof. The gear is 4 to 5' below, and it's one bomber big brass and another fair brass with better gear below. The roof is reachy and strenuous, and it's not totally clear how to do it. I nearly fell off when my left foot skated off a flake I was pushing off of to increase my reach.
The route: the Rossiter topo shows the climb starting on P2 of Anthill Direct and then angling left across the slab to the base of the vertical crack. We climbed further left, skirting the initial ceiling, up a left angling ramp (good horns to sling), and then angled right on easy ground to the base of the crack. You could also climb more directly up the slab with no gear. The lower part of the crack, up the slab to the base of the headwall, has good gear. The first moves up the headwall are a bit spooky. With difficulty, you can get a fair medium brass to protect these moves. The climbing above is well protected and interesting, with a balancy move to get up to the roof. Get as much gear as you can, since there is no gear at or above the roof. Climb straight through the roof (don't move right through it, although that may also work), protect your second well, and traverse straight right to the Anthill Direct P2 belay.
Descent: if you're familiar and comfortable with Anthill Direct, the best "descent" may be to continue up on Anthill Direct. Otherwise, you can rappel to the Upper Ramp and then off of good bolt anchors in two single-rope or one double-rope rappels to the ground. There are currently two good pins at the top of P2 of Anthill Direct, but there may be no slings and rings. You'll want webbing and rings or leaver biners. If you want to backup the pins with a nut, you'll want more webbing. We left a good, big brass nut in a crack to the right and connected it all with an old cordalette. The rappel passes some large blocks and you land to the right of the Anthill Direct P1 anchor bolts. Easily hike left to those bolts, and then rap from there to the ground.