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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Pat Ament and Jean Juhan, 1964
Page Views: 890 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kevin Currigan on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin about 40 feet down and left from the big pine tree across from Wind Ridge. Climb a ramp that angles up to the left and work straight up to a belay in a greenish hollow. Traverse right for 30 feet, then up and left along a steep ramp and through some bulges (crux). Continue on easier terrain until it is possible to traverse north to join the East Slabs Descent. It is advisable to belay as described above to avoid serious rope drag. Take the S rating seriously on this one.

Per Ivan Rezucha: On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'.

I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult.

I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again, I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good.

Protection

Good luck. Small and medium cams for sure.

Per Ivan Rezucha: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts.

Photos

Phill T
  5.7 R
Phill T  
  5.7 R
Think I did the first pitch. Didn't find any pins, bolts, or chalk for that matter. Pro was scarce, but my belay was good, not sure if it was in the right spot. Ended up traversing right, must have missed the part where it goes up cuz I just traversed right all the way to the ground. Guess I need to work on route finding! May 18, 2009
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.7 X
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
  5.7 X
The S on this route is deserved. The holds are all there but its steep and exposed and there isn't much pro on the second pitch.

We belayed at some rap rings under the roof at the end of the traverse just before you cut right. This is a good place to belay as it minimizes rope drag and provides a bomber anchor. The initial traverse has good pro fortunately as this airy traverse is just as dangerous for the follower as the leader.

Overall its a fun climb for the grade. Bomber buckets allow steep climbing without exceeding the 5.7 grade--thats a classic in my book. Apr 23, 2008
slevin  
The old spinner on the neighboring "Sticky Feet" (not in database) has been replaced. Jun 12, 2007
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
We tried this route a couple of weeks ago, and I definitely agree with the comments. The 's' rating on this one is significant. I used quite a bit of pro on the first pitch, but placements around the crux (just above the ramp) are difficult to find and dubious at best. The rock is solid, and there are good hands, but the [feet] didn't inspire much confidence. I also agree with Ivan's comment that the route description appears to be a bit off. Be careful where you place protection down low, and use long slings. I placed a bad piece or two that created terrible rope drag (not good, especially through the crux). It started to rain on us, so we traversed left to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of The Bulge and bailed. Nov 21, 2005
Boo T. Call
  5.7+
Boo T. Call  
  5.7+
This probaby shouldn't be your first 5.7 lead.We managed to pull it off in 1 pitch with a 70m cord, and for what it's worth, the somewhat infrequent gear was pretty much all in a nice line although the actual climbing wandered all over the place. Long slings for sure.

Pin at 'belay' spot is a rusty angle with one good eye. Arrr! Feb 28, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
The description above is a direct quote from the Rossiter Eldo guide. We shouldn't be just copying guidebook descriptions onto this site. Much better to use your own words and add more detail.

Besides, I think Rossiter's description is wrong in a couple of places. On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'.

I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult.

I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good.

Gear: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts. May 16, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
The gear is definitely sub-par and spread out, so take longer slings to avoid too much drag or pulling your gear. This is an adventure climb that you will find some route-finding necessary on. Jul 16, 2002