Avg: 0.9 from 15 votes
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches
|FA:||Pat Ament and Jean Juhan, 1964|
|Page Views:||1,325 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin Currigan on Jul 8, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Per Ivan Rezucha: On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'.
I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult.
I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again, I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good.
Per Ivan Rezucha: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts.