Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Pat Ament and Jean Juhan, 1964
Page Views: 1,189 total · 5/month
Shared By: Kevin Currigan on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Begin about 40 feet down and left from the big pine tree across from Wind Ridge. Climb a ramp that angles up to the left and work straight up to a belay in a greenish hollow. Traverse right for 30 feet, then up and left along a steep ramp and through some bulges (crux). Continue on easier terrain until it is possible to traverse north to join the East Slabs Descent. It is advisable to belay as described above to avoid serious rope drag. Take the S rating seriously on this one.

Per Ivan Rezucha: On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'.

I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult.

I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again, I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good.

Protection

Good luck. Small and medium cams for sure.

Per Ivan Rezucha: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts.

Photos