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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Anthill/Redguard Traverse aka Bozo's Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 153 total · 33/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Apr 1, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This description is for the first pitch only. The entire route is 4 pitches and is rated 5.9 A3+, but the first pitch is worthy as a free climb in itself.

The climbing follows a thin, offset seam through the headwall to the left of Sidetrack. If you like Alice in Bucketland type of climbing, check this pitch out. It's a great way to get to the start of The Blunt Buttress and The Vaporizer.

I think the only aid climbing Kyle Copeland did on this route is on the thin seam up on P4, just left of The Vaporizer. The P4 seam has been toproped at 12+ and is an open project if anyone wants to bolt it.

When I first led this pitch with Chip Ruckgaber and Tim Dewitt, we were anticipating hard free climbing because the Levin guidebook describes it as thin aid, but there are jugs up the headwall that keep it moderate. I'm sure Kyle free climbed this pitch, there were no signs of aiding and no fixed pins.

Get a gear belay at an obvious stance where the route intersects Sidetrack in the large, right-facing corner. There are a couple of fixed nuts there. It is possible to rap with 2 ropes to the ground or two raps with 1 rope to the Redguard anchor. A 70m rope is needed.

Continue up The Blunt Buttress, 5.11, 5 bolts to be installed April 2018 or Sidetrack to The Vaporizer.

You can also do this as one 60m pitch from the ground. Long slings are needed.

Location

For reference, look at the photo on page 153 of the Levin guidebook second edition. It is route 74. Start via P1 of the Redguard route or P1 of Anthill Direct. Look for an obvious, large block above the roof that Anthill traverses under. Climb through the overhang to the right of the block on jugs.

Protection

A standard rack. Maybe double up on #3 Camelot size so you don't have to back clean a bomber cam below the roof. There are good cams below the overhang and just above it. Some tricky nut placements along the seam keep it at PG-13, but if you miss those, it will feel pretty spicy. Long slings are useful. Save some large nuts or medium cams for the belay.

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