Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 1,196 total · 17/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Apr 1, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This description is for the first pitch only. The entire route is 4 pitches and is rated 5.9 A3+, but the first pitch is worthy as a free climb in itself.

The climbing follows a thin, offset seam through the headwall to the left of Sidetrack. If you like Alice in Bucketland type of climbing, check this pitch out. It's a great way to get to the start of The Blunt Buttress and The Vaporizer.

I think the only aid climbing Kyle Copeland did on this route is on the thin seam up on P4, just left of The Vaporizer. The P4 seam has been toproped at 12+ and is an open project if anyone wants to bolt it.

When I first led this pitch with Chip Ruckgaber and Tim Dewitt, we were anticipating hard free climbing because the Levin guidebook describes it as thin aid, but there are jugs up the headwall that keep it moderate. I'm sure Kyle free climbed this pitch, there were no signs of aiding and no fixed pins.

Get a gear belay at an obvious stance where the route intersects Sidetrack in the large, right-facing corner. There are a couple of fixed nuts there. It is possible to rap with 2 ropes to the ground or two raps with 1 rope to the Redguard anchor. A 70m rope is needed.

Continue up The Blunt Buttress, 5.11, 5 bolts to be installed April 2018 or Sidetrack to The Vaporizer.

You can also do this as one 60m pitch from the ground. Long slings are needed.

Location Suggest change

For reference, look at the photo on page 153 of the Levin guidebook second edition. It is route 74. Start via P1 of the Redguard route or P1 of Anthill Direct. Look for an obvious, large block above the roof that Anthill traverses under. Climb through the overhang to the right of the block on jugs.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack. Maybe double up on #3 Camelot size so you don't have to back clean a bomber cam below the roof. There are good cams below the overhang and just above it. Some tricky nut placements along the seam keep it at PG-13, but if you miss those, it will feel pretty spicy. Long slings are useful. Save some large nuts or medium cams for the belay.


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