Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|Page Views:||648 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||mike schlauch on Apr 1, 2018|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The climbing follows a thin, offset seam through the headwall to the left of Sidetrack. If you like Alice in Bucketland type of climbing, check this pitch out. It's a great way to get to the start of The Blunt Buttress and The Vaporizer.
I think the only aid climbing Kyle Copeland did on this route is on the thin seam up on P4, just left of The Vaporizer. The P4 seam has been toproped at 12+ and is an open project if anyone wants to bolt it.
When I first led this pitch with Chip Ruckgaber and Tim Dewitt, we were anticipating hard free climbing because the Levin guidebook describes it as thin aid, but there are jugs up the headwall that keep it moderate. I'm sure Kyle free climbed this pitch, there were no signs of aiding and no fixed pins.
Get a gear belay at an obvious stance where the route intersects Sidetrack in the large, right-facing corner. There are a couple of fixed nuts there. It is possible to rap with 2 ropes to the ground or two raps with 1 rope to the Redguard anchor. A 70m rope is needed.
Continue up The Blunt Buttress, 5.11, 5 bolts to be installed April 2018 or Sidetrack to The Vaporizer.
You can also do this as one 60m pitch from the ground. Long slings are needed.