Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|Page Views:||837 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||mike schlauch on Apr 1, 2018|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The climbing follows a thin, offset seam through the headwall to the left of Sidetrack. If you like Alice in Bucketland type of climbing, check this pitch out. It's a great way to get to the start of The Blunt Buttress and The Vaporizer.
I think the only aid climbing Kyle Copeland did on this route is on the thin seam up on P4, just left of The Vaporizer. The P4 seam has been toproped at 12+ and is an open project if anyone wants to bolt it.
When I first led this pitch with Chip Ruckgaber and Tim Dewitt, we were anticipating hard free climbing because the Levin guidebook describes it as thin aid, but there are jugs up the headwall that keep it moderate. I'm sure Kyle free climbed this pitch, there were no signs of aiding and no fixed pins.
Get a gear belay at an obvious stance where the route intersects Sidetrack in the large, right-facing corner. There are a couple of fixed nuts there. It is possible to rap with 2 ropes to the ground or two raps with 1 rope to the Redguard anchor. A 70m rope is needed.
Continue up The Blunt Buttress, 5.11, 5 bolts to be installed April 2018 or Sidetrack to The Vaporizer.
You can also do this as one 60m pitch from the ground. Long slings are needed.