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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Montgomery, Hruby, Brooks
Page Views: 2,821 total · 13/month
Shared By: steve dieckhoff on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is one of my favorite routes in this part of Eldo. I like the challenging climbing, the position, and the 'minimalist' use of bolts. Most people think it's hard for .11a and has a couple 'cruxes'. My main reason for posting is to report that one of the two belay bolts has broken off. This is a useful rappel anchor for the routes Pilgrim (10d) and Walk the Talk (9+) also. Both of those routes are good and well worth doing also. From this belay, a 40' 5.5 pitch up and right takes you to the anchors on Black Top from which you can rap to the ground via the anchors on Night if you have a 60 meter rope. A 50 meter rope may work, but you'll have to end further up on Pseudo-Sidetrack and descend from there.

Protection

Supplement bolts with small gear & #2.5 Friend.

Photos

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A route to do for those who have "done everything in Eldo", and are bored. You won't be bored on this route. Good nut craft a must. Aug 20, 2002
The broken anchor bolt was replaced and rap rings/links installed during the Celebrate Eldo weekend 2002. This route is as good as any on the Blackwalk wall, and definitely a sandbag at 11a. Mar 5, 2003
Aaron Ramras
  5.11b
Aaron Ramras  
  5.11b
This is a great pitch! I found that the bolts protect the crux moves well. Supplemental gear in combination with positive edges make the rest of it quite reasonable. I felt pretty comfortable with two #1 cams and a single set of TCUs. You can access the start of The Vaporizor by following the band up and left from the bolted anchor at the base of High Noon. Doing Pilgrim, High Noon, and the Vaporizor makes for a very nice outing. Feb 1, 2012
michalm
Boulder, CO
5.11 PG13
michalm   Boulder, CO
5.11 PG13
The second half of this route has good climbing on excellent rock. The first half is rather uninspiring and not very enjoyable. There is very R rated 9-10 ish terrain. Dec 19, 2017