Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Montgomery, Hruby, Brooks
Page Views: 2,882 total · 13/month
Shared By: steve dieckhoff on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is one of my favorite routes in this part of Eldo. I like the challenging climbing, the position, and the 'minimalist' use of bolts. Most people think it's hard for .11a and has a couple 'cruxes'. My main reason for posting is to report that one of the two belay bolts has broken off. This is a useful rappel anchor for the routes Pilgrim (10d) and Walk the Talk (9+) also. Both of those routes are good and well worth doing also. From this belay, a 40' 5.5 pitch up and right takes you to the anchors on Black Top from which you can rap to the ground via the anchors on Night if you have a 60 meter rope. A 50 meter rope may work, but you'll have to end further up on Pseudo-Sidetrack and descend from there.

Protection

Supplement bolts with small gear & #2.5 Friend.

Photos

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A route to do for those who have "done everything in Eldo", and are bored. You won't be bored on this route. Good nut craft a must. Aug 20, 2002
The broken anchor bolt was replaced and rap rings/links installed during the Celebrate Eldo weekend 2002. This route is as good as any on the Blackwalk wall, and definitely a sandbag at 11a. Mar 5, 2003
Aaron Ramras
  5.11b
Aaron Ramras  
  5.11b
This is a great pitch! I found that the bolts protect the crux moves well. Supplemental gear in combination with positive edges make the rest of it quite reasonable. I felt pretty comfortable with two #1 cams and a single set of TCUs. You can access the start of The Vaporizor by following the band up and left from the bolted anchor at the base of High Noon. Doing Pilgrim, High Noon, and the Vaporizor makes for a very nice outing. Feb 1, 2012
michalm
Boulder, CO
5.11 PG13
michalm   Boulder, CO
5.11 PG13
The second half of this route has good climbing on excellent rock. The first half is rather uninspiring and not very enjoyable. There is very R rated 9-10 ish terrain. Dec 19, 2017