Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Christian Griffith and Chris Hill
Page Views: 2,243 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike McKinnon on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This excellent sport(y) climb lies between Flakes and C'Est la Vie. It actually takes the same line as C'Est la Morte for the first 50 feet and then breaks left and follows a beautiful face and arete up a blank face to a two bolt anchor. To gain the arete one must make strenous and delicate eldo face moves at 12b. Clipping the fourth bolt comes at the crux 12b/c. Rossiter gives this route and s I think for the run-out from the last bolt to the top. It was a little run-out but after the 12b/c delicate face you just moved through, the rest of the 10d on solid flakes feels great.

Protection

The protection on this route consists of 4 QDs and possibly a #2 Cam for the slab up to the face.

Photos

At least a couple of hard-to-clip bolts--and they're those nasty old ring bolts. It would be nice to replace all these in Eldo someday. Nov 1, 2004
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.12c R
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.12c R
This is a perfect example of just how funky and awesome Eldo can be. This route is all over the place and so much fun to climb. There is chalk on it on, and it needs to be done more often. Check it out. Mar 8, 2013
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Fun route. Be careful when falling at the first and second bolts. You move leftwards away from the bolts, and when you fall, you pendulum across an edge. Apr 3, 2017
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
The 4 ring bolts were replaced with fat glue-ins. Oct 13, 2017
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
  5.12b/c
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
  5.12b/c
Woo Hoo! Thanks! I will have to get back on that thing! Oct 16, 2017
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
Pulled off the block that you traverse on to at the first bolt on the upper face. There are some holds on the face, but the moves are more morpho and quite a bit harder. Should still be fun :) Wear helmets. The rock that we pulled was about 3ft in diameter. Jun 21, 2018
A C
Your moms house
  5.12 PG13
A C   Your moms house
  5.12 PG13
Got on this today. Though the flake is missing, the climbing probably did not get too much harder. Don't go directly up at the last bolt, it goes but is much harder. Get on this rig! Nov 10, 2018