Type: Sport, 170 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Brad Bond, 2007
Page Views: 3,727 total · 33/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


The Vaporizer is a pretty new rock climb (I think the Fixed Hardware Review Committee approved it in 2005?) and is somewhat obscure, most likely because of its location, but it is excellent and should be on the list for any well-traveled Eldo climber.

The route is sustained and very interesting... typical Eldo-bizarro-weird climbing, but a lot of fun and challenging with multiple 5.11 sections, and only a few 5.10 "rests" here and there.

Begin by starting at the base of the Bulge Wall and climbing Pseudo-Sidetrack for a few pitches (if you're simuling, it is better to tie in close together to avoid rope drag) to the huge ledge with a large pine tree and a dead juniper. I believe this ledge is Juniper Ledge, and it is roughly 250' out from terra firma. From here, move the belay easily up the ramp 30' to a perch at a live juniper. The line of bolts straight up the face above should be obvious.

There's a scary move to the first clip and then the difficulties begin, a second clip, then a fixed wire (a #6 BD), then bolts the rest of the way up the wall and through a roof. This leads to easy but runout climbing up to a big roof system/overlap. Construct a gear belay here, and descend via the East Slabs.


The route is bolted (nine or ten bolts plus an essential fixed wire) yet a little spicy in places, although some gear might mitigate that. We brought a bunch of draws plus a 0.5, 0.75, and #1 Camalot for the anchor and this was fine.


Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
I think this is one of the best 5.11 face pitches in Eldo! It was approved by FHRC and the public in fall 2006, and follows some beautiful, steep rock. Perhaps no move harder than 11b but so sustained that it's comparable in difficulty to other Eldo 11c's when going for the onsight. Thanks to Brad for this excellent line! Jan 25, 2010
Ventura, CA
krispyyo   Ventura, CA
Awesome climb. Mar 16, 2012
A fantastic pitch of engaging face climbing on excellent stone. The fixed wire is no longer in place. Dec 28, 2016
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
This is one of the best pitches of 5.11 I have climbed in Eldo. Imagine a long, continuous pitch of delicate Flatirons sport climbing with very compact, sculpted, scooped rock, and plenty of hidden edges. After a bit of tenuous insecurity past the first two bolts, the climbing becomes thoughtfully delightful and thoroughly enjoyable. This is the closest thing to a sport bolted pitch I have climbed in Eldo. I didn't see a fixed wire or notice its absence. Dec 19, 2017
Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
Beautiful line. Accidentally went a little to right from the first bolt and had to begin again. Found a 0.2 also fits pretty snugly where you could place that nut. A great link-up from C’est La Vie right underneath it. Jun 9, 2018