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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Anthill/Redguard Traverse aka Bozo's Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 170 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Brad Bond, 2007
Page Views: 3,423 total · 34/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description [Edit]

The Vaporizer is a pretty new rock climb (I think the Fixed Hardware Review Committee approved it in 2005?) and is somewhat obscure, most likely because of its location, but it is excellent and should be on the list for any well-traveled Eldo climber.

The route is sustained and very interesting... typical Eldo-bizarro-weird climbing, but a lot of fun and challenging with multiple 5.11 sections, and only a few 5.10 "rests" here and there.

Begin by starting at the base of the Bulge Wall and climbing Pseudo-Sidetrack for a few pitches (if you're simuling, it is better to tie in close together to avoid rope drag) to the huge ledge with a large pine tree and a dead juniper. I believe this ledge is Juniper Ledge, and it is roughly 250' out from terra firma. From here, move the belay easily up the ramp 30' to a perch at a live juniper. The line of bolts straight up the face above should be obvious.

There's a scary move to the first clip and then the difficulties begin, a second clip, then a fixed wire (a #6 BD), then bolts the rest of the way up the wall and through a roof. This leads to easy but runout climbing up to a big roof system/overlap. Construct a gear belay here, and descend via the East Slabs.

Protection [Edit]

The route is bolted (nine or ten bolts plus an essential fixed wire) yet a little spicy in places, although some gear might mitigate that. We brought a bunch of draws plus a 0.5, 0.75, and #1 Camalot for the anchor and this was fine.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.11b/c
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.11b/c
I think this is one of the best 5.11 face pitches in Eldo! It was approved by FHRC and the public in fall 2006, and follows some beautiful, steep rock. Perhaps no move harder than 11b but so sustained that it's comparable in difficulty to other Eldo 11c's when going for the onsight. Thanks to Brad for this excellent line! Jan 25, 2010
krispyyo
Ventura, CA
 
krispyyo   Ventura, CA
 
Awesome climb. Mar 16, 2012
A fantastic pitch of engaging face climbing on excellent stone. The fixed wire is no longer in place. Dec 28, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
This is one of the best pitches of 5.11 I have climbed in Eldo. Imagine a long, continuous pitch of delicate Flatirons sport climbing with very compact, sculpted, scooped rock, and plenty of hidden edges. After a bit of tenuous insecurity past the first two bolts, the climbing becomes thoughtfully delightful and thoroughly enjoyable. This is the closest thing to a sport bolted pitch I have climbed in Eldo. I didn't see a fixed wire or notice its absence. Dec 19, 2017

More About The Vaporizer

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Fixed Hardware Report (9)