Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R | |
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R | |
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a | |
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R | |
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X | |
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X | |
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R | |
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R | |
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Type: |
Trad, 140 ft
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
FA: | Tom Quinn, David Jones, 1958 |
Page Views: | 2,879 total, 15/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutes a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutes a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
A fun route up a beautiful face with a short approach. This is the easier version of The Flakes but is a bit more runout to start. It shares the same, delicate, balancy crux. Windy days can make this spooky for the inexperienced second, says my wife.Begin to the right of some boulders up the boulder field above the large cement slab by the river. This is just right of C'est La Vie and left of the bench between Whale's Tail and Redgarden Wall. It is a few feet right of The Flakes.
There is little opportunity for clean protection on the first bit of this climb. Climb up and then on a diagonal ramp to the left. Find a pin. Move up on good face holds toward a crack. Find good pro along this crack with wires and small-medium cams. The crack fades and you clip a bolt. Climb past this through a brief crux requiring more balance and finesse than power to a undercling. Place a #3 or #3 1/2 Friend to protect your second or risk a whopping screamer if your second peels above the bolt. Traverse about 25 feet left on a sloping ledge to the 2 bolt anchor. 140 feet of fun climbing.
Thankfully, the anchor has been improved with 2 modern bolts in solid rock in 2000 by ACE and the FHRC. It used to be a pin behind a hollow flake with a bashie that just made you wonder. Note, it is 30m to the level of scrambling off. Pay attention when you get to the end of your ropes since you do not reach walking ground with a single 60m rope.
Gary Stetler notes that the Ericson guide rated this 5.7. Hey, but that's the same gifted author who put up, via on sight solo, Blind Faith and thought it was 5.9.
Photos
10 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Colorado
I think Scott's comment hits the nail on the head - for many Eldo climbs. Apr 9, 2009
Boulder, CO
Louisville, Co
Boulder, CO
Lyons, CO
Boulder, CO
Fun steep crack and face.
If this is 5.9, it's the easiest 5.9 in Eldorado. Sep 4, 2003
Rossiter calls it 5.9- which I thought was pretty close. Though it's more delicate/technical than powerful. Jun 9, 2003
Fort Collins, CO