Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Eric Doub, 1982
Page Views: 190 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.

Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.

Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.

There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).

Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.

Protection

Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.

Photos

Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route. Oct 20, 2006
Stiff little climb. Worth doing though. Take only a few pieces protects great at the lip. Short but sweet! Jun 11, 2007